The Ford Barn

Karl Wescott · 01-25-2026, 12:18 PM

1. Original windwing brackets had a concave surface facing the glass. The original pads had a matching convex shape. I don't know about the Vintique part but if it is a repro of the original and the brackets are repro* they will not work together. Repro* brackets usually have a flat face against the glass and use a flat pad (trimmed to shape after installation).

2. Alignment is everything to keep the glass from slipping. The fulcrum is an adjustable screw, then you have the clamping screw. The fulcrum screw needs to be adjusted so when the brackets clamp the glass they are parallel to each other and compress the pads evenly. If the fulcrum screw is too high the clamps pinch at the back with no compression at the front (and the glass falls out). If the screws are too low at the front then the clamps pinch at the front (and the glass falls out).

3. If the fulcrum screws are adjusted properly and good compression applied that is usually enough to keep the glass in place. Weatherstrip adhesive is often a mess but could help if the fulcrum screws are adjusted properly but will not be enough if they are not. That said, with a repro* bracket die grinding a small pocket in the flat face and a drop of adhesive may help the pad from shifting on the bracket.

4. As with almost anything, start by assembling everything loosely. You want to start with the brackets on the windshield post snug but able to rotate slightly in both directions. When you start tightening the brackets to the glass that allows the brackets to rotate to be parallel with each other and not flex the glass. Then tighten the lock nuts.

5. The swivel bearing surfaces are supposed to be tapered to lock when the adjustment screw are tightened. Think like as a Morse taper drill bit. These need to be checked for full contact and lapped with an abrasive if needed. Check by marking with a black marker, then insert and rotate, areas not making contact will still be marked on examination.

6. Pads are rubber and holding the glass by compression. Over time as they age and harden they may "lose their grip". Expect to replace every 10 years or so.

* Walt Trautwein did make repro bracket with the pocket but they were discontinued in the 1980's iirc.

01-25-2026, 12:18 PM	#3
Karl Wescott Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,662	Re: Hints on installing wind wing glass and brackets 1. Original windwing brackets had a concave surface facing the glass. The original pads had a matching convex shape. I don't know about the Vintique part but if it is a repro of the original and the brackets are repro* they will not work together. Repro* brackets usually have a flat face against the glass and use a flat pad (trimmed to shape after installation). 2. Alignment is everything to keep the glass from slipping. The fulcrum is an adjustable screw, then you have the clamping screw. The fulcrum screw needs to be adjusted so when the brackets clamp the glass they are parallel to each other and compress the pads evenly. If the fulcrum screw is too high the clamps pinch at the back with no compression at the front (and the glass falls out). If the screws are too low at the front then the clamps pinch at the front (and the glass falls out). 3. If the fulcrum screws are adjusted properly and good compression applied that is usually enough to keep the glass in place. Weatherstrip adhesive is often a mess but could help if the fulcrum screws are adjusted properly but will not be enough if they are not. That said, with a repro* bracket die grinding a small pocket in the flat face and a drop of adhesive may help the pad from shifting on the bracket. 4. As with almost anything, start by assembling everything loosely. You want to start with the brackets on the windshield post snug but able to rotate slightly in both directions. When you start tightening the brackets to the glass that allows the brackets to rotate to be parallel with each other and not flex the glass. Then tighten the lock nuts. 5. The swivel bearing surfaces are supposed to be tapered to lock when the adjustment screw are tightened. Think like as a Morse taper drill bit. These need to be checked for full contact and lapped with an abrasive if needed. Check by marking with a black marker, then insert and rotate, areas not making contact will still be marked on examination. 6. Pads are rubber and holding the glass by compression. Over time as they age and harden they may "lose their grip". Expect to replace every 10 years or so. * Walt Trautwein did make repro bracket with the pocket but they were discontinued in the 1980's iirc. Last edited by Karl Wescott; 01-25-2026 at 12:37 PM.