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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Punta Gorda fl
Posts: 37
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48 lower pulley been a real problem ! I’ve soaked I tapped I warmed it up, I’ve got the BFH out then a puller and smack from under it rotating pulley. Noe this is what I ended up with. A sheave on the ground and the sleeve still on crank nose… not sure what direction to go? Any more ideas..
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Use a small die grinder with a thin cutting disc and VERY CAREFULLY grind a slot into the sleeve being careful not to grind through to the crank. Then use a cold chisel to split the sleeve so you can pry it up and off a little at a time.
As it sits now would it be possible to apply heat to the remaining sleeve to expand it and loosen it without damaging any other parts like the retainer that hold the crank seal in place? Also, would it be possible to drill a series of small holes through the metal sleeve and into the top of the key that holds the sleeve in place? Would it be possible to take a pipe cutter and cut through the circumference of the sleeve in several places so as to loosen and weaken the grip the sleeve has on the crank snout? If you remove the timing cover, is it possible to possibly drive the sleeve forward? Is it possible to remove the crank from the engine while leaving the sleeve in place as it is AND THEN gain better access to removing the sleeve? Last edited by 19Fordy; 11-09-2025 at 05:24 PM. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 12,568
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That looks serious. Hope you are not going to reuse the Pulley? |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 12,568
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 12,568
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Job done |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 357
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I would weld some lugs to it for the puller and some chain links for a slide hammer. Wind up pressure with the puller and rap it with the slide hammer. Hopefully it will move a bit then wind up pressure again and rap it. Repeat til it’s off. Try to do the work while it’s still hot from welding. Do you have a welder to use? Other thoughts: take a center punch and hammer in rows of punch marks to relieve/expand the sleeve
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I am building a 1939 1 ton express Last edited by ActionYobbo; 11-09-2025 at 05:44 PM. Reason: Spelling |
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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Quote:
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Lake worth Florida
Posts: 1,466
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Any evidence of Lock tite ? If so heat is needed or the dremel .
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#9 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 10,539
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I NEVER pound on a crank. I'd use some heat up there as Ggmac has suggested.
__________________
"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you". |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 12,568
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Removing stubborn Crank Pulley from Y Block |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 9,239
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I would try getting a piece of plate about 1/2" thick and tapping a 1/2" unf thread in it. I'd turn it down until it fitted just inside the pulley and weld it to the remnants. The weld would be only at the very end of the pulley. I'd then take a 1/2" bolt and shape the end with a shallow taper like a drill and use it to (hopefully) wind the pulley remnants off.
If you weld lower down the length it will make the part tighter due to shrinkage. this assumes the 1/2" bolt will pass down inside the 5/8" thread already there. It might be worth just grinding the diameter down but only adjacent to the keyway. Stop grinding when you get to the key. It might then move off easily or use the method above to pull it off. Weakening it first would help I would think. Mart. |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Perry Mo.
Posts: 838
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Mart is spot on with his second thought. I had to do the same on an 8BA where for some reason the pulley had walked around the crank snout but hadn't sheared the key. Tim
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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I like Mart's guidance.
Regarding the 1/2" bolt, in addition to the taper I would be very careful that the bolt is centered in the plate before welding to prevent damage to the crank snout threads. I would make a plate that faces the end pulley snout and weld on the back side toward the engine. A 7/16" bolt may be a little safer, providing more clearance and still plenty strong. I’d feel better with a 1/2” bolt though. I'd also use a heat gun on the snout before cranking the 1/2 or 7/16" bolt into the threaded plate. Glenn
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Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford Last edited by glennpm; 11-10-2025 at 08:01 PM. |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Hard to tell by the pictures, but did you loosen the crank bolt before trying to pull it off? I always remove the bolt and, if needed depending on your puller, use a washer to protect the threads. Either way, I guess it's too late now.
Do you have a welder? If so, weld some thin plates on either side so the puller can grab to remaining sleave to try and pull it off. At this point, go slow, lots of penetrating oil and heat to hopefully coax it off. |
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