Big oil loss on rear sid

[nkaminar]

Werner, At this point this modern seal, https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/p...8770&cat=41685, is you best bet. But it will require a lot of work including removing your crank and having it machined. There are instructions at that web page.

[Werner]

Good evening to all the helpers and readers!

Now I finally understand it correctly. Thanks again!

The slinger on my crankshaft was removed improperly. Since I don't want to remove the crankshaft again, I'm trying to patch up the existing mess as best I can.
I can't sand the rough radial edge smooth. I'll coat it with MoS2 anti friction lacquer.
I grind away 1/4 inch of the center rib on the bottom of the bearing cap for better oil drainage.
Into the outer groove of the cap, I insert graphite cord or a halved teflon bearing worm, similar to the one used between the front crankshaft bearing and oil pan.
The back of the bearing cap gets a metal plate sealed with sealant.
I enlarge the drain pan under the clutch housing hole.

Perhaps this is a compromise an I have to renew the procedere once a year or every two years. -


If I were 10 years younger, I'd do it perfectly. But I think I can only drive my Little Green Roadster for another 3 to 5 years at most.
It's true that some shoddy work was done there. I bought the car for a very, very large sum of money from a Dutch dealer. Supposedly a "frame-off" restoration. But it was a scam. And I fell for it because I bought it with a warm heart. Love at first sight blinded me.
I spent the first two years $12,000 invested in spare parts and many hundred hours. Everything restored to perfection and largely original condition. Rare accessories sourced from all over the world were bought back.

The car runs well and gives me a lot of driving pleasure.

But now enough has been invested.

[Werner]

Guten Abend Freunde,

I have about 10 inches of technical literature for Model A. However, I've discovered different values ​​for the tightening torque of the rear bearing cup: 55 ft-lbs and much higher, 80.
The later seems very high to me; could it be a misrepresentation?




I can see differences in the plasti gage when I change the torque by 1 kp/m.
Dankeschoen!

[nkaminar]

The oil will leak out the joint between the cap and the block. Smear a very light coating of a good gasket sealer on the cap where it joins the block and any shims there.

[Werner]

Good evening,


I applied prussian blue spotting paste to the bearing race and scraped it a bit more evenly, and the bearing clearance is now between 0.02 and 0.25 mm.

03_IMG_20251109_142513157.jpg
Using dental impression material and the lathe, I designed the size of the seal for the rear groove against the damaged centrifugal ring. A 6 x 8 mm graphite seal might work. Perhaps.

15_IMG_20251109_150108059.jpg


I'll keep you posted.

[Fullraceflathead]

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That looks like you may have found the solution!

[David in San Antonio]

I look back and wonder what my life might have been had I apprenticed in a machine shop. It’s not too late to learn how to use a lathe, mill, and so on.

[CT Jack]

Werner,
I think your clearance measurements are .02mm-.025mm not .25mm hopefully.

[Terry Burtz, Calif]

Originally Posted by Werner

Good evening,


I applied prussian blue spotting paste to the bearing race and scraped it a bit more evenly, and the bearing clearance is now between 0.02 and 0.25 mm.

03_IMG_20251109_142513157.jpg
Using dental impression material and the lathe, I designed the size of the seal for the rear groove against the damaged centrifugal ring. A 6 x 8 mm graphite seal might work. Perhaps.

15_IMG_20251109_150108059.jpg


I'll keep you posted.

On assembly, your 6 x 8 graphite will be preloaded against the damaged centrifugal ring, and when the engine is started, you won't have a leak.

After a few miles, the damaged centrifugal ring will remove enough material from the 6 x 8 graphite, and the preload will be reduced to zero.

Without preload, your leak will return.

Please consider using the radial lip seal that Y-Blockhead suggested.

[Werner]

Guten Abend.


Yes, you've got it all figured out. I know what I'm doing isn't exactly clean work.


But I can probably only drive the car for three years in the future. And the prices for classic cars, especially pre-war ones, are falling at leadt in Germany because there's no next generation of interest buyeres and fewer engine rebuilders, etc. -


To apply some springy counter-pressure to the half-graphite ring, I insert a 4-5 mm Perbunan rubber cord into the groove at the bottom.
If it holds reasonably well for 5000 miles, I'll be satisfied and repeat the job once a year.

13_IMG_20251110_145557761_HDR.jpg


Jack is absolutely right, that was my typo.

[katy]

I've discovered different values ​​for the tightening torque of the rear bearing cup: 55 ft-lbs and much higher, 80.
The later seems very high to me; could it be a misrepresentation?

I use the 80 ft-lbs torque.