Improved brake rods

[GYYSYF]

Only Keith True and Y-Blockhead on this thread seem to correctly understand how to properly adjust Model A brakes.

The other people focused on wooden boards and 15 degree arms and fixed length rods etc. are really clueless and scary.

Does anyone here actually ever read and understand all the correct Ford brake adjusting info published by Ford, Fahnestock, Page, Dykes, Chiltons, and other experts back in the era?

Or do people think they are somehow smarter now that they have the amateur hobbiest books and magazines, the internet, and youtube videos?

[P.S.]

Originally Posted by GYYSYF

Only Keith True and Y-Blockhead on this thread seem to correctly understand how to properly adjust Model A brakes.

Perhaps you're right. However, I have an engineering degree, fully understand the Model A braking system, and can tell you with great confidence that you may not be correct about all of us.

[Ruth]

The way the OP and the YouTube video adjust the brakes seems way over complicated to me. Like some others, I have always followed Purdy Swofts advice when adjusting the brakes.

"Here is how I adjust mine . I start with the center service brake cross shaft . I disconnect the service brake rods on the adjustable clevis ends . I set the pedal rod so that the plunger end is 1/16th of an inch from the inside rear of the center crossmember where it meets the plunger on the brake light switch on the 30-31 models . I then adjust the clevis on the pedal rod so that the pedal is at the top of its travel and prop it up until you get the service brake rods adjusted and connected . I then adjust the adjusting wedges at each wheel until there is very slight drag but the wheels will turn fairly freely . I then adjust and connect the service brake rods so there is no slack where the clevis end connects the brake levers . I pull the front brake levers back to remove all slack . I then adjust the front service brake rod clevises so that the brake rod pins will JUST enter the clevis and front brake levers . I then move on to the adjustment and connection of the rear brake rods . Pull the rear brake levers forward to remove the slack and then adjust the clevis so that the brake pins will just enter . This setup will remove all of the slack in the brake rod connections so that the brakes will be ready to begin activation with the least amount of depression of the brake pedal . This is only the setup and adjustments . If everything is good with the brake drums and other parts under the drums are in fairly good shape you will have good brakes . I always test mine in a sand or dirt driveway to observe the skid marks and readjust as necessary ."
Purdy Swoft

[Russell Reay]

Update-- went on a 102 mile tour with Monadnock As club yesterday. Longest trip yet in my car, and lost very little water. Brakes all worked, but clearly need additional attention. In a previous post I showed one the front rods hung up on a RotoFlo shock. Now have friction shocks from Speedway Motors--no change in quality of the ride, but NO brake rod surprises. In another previous post I described very tight steering. This was my first trip with rebuilt 2-tooth box. Still too tight, but not unworkable. Winter is coming, and I see a whole front end re-evalution and repair in my future.

[Keith True]

First,try adjusting your brakes according to the service bulletins,Pauls way,Purdys way,etc.The differences between them is like deciding to scratch your nose with your left hand or right hand.Pay no attention to a board,if the brakes are adjusted right,and your parts are right,the car will stop fine.If you start adjusting things to meet the criteria of a stick of wood things won't be right.That board does not allow for almost 100 years of things wearing and getting bent and twisted a few thousandths here and there.

[katy]

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Originally Posted by Russell Reay

Update-- went on a 102 mile tour with Monadnock As club yesterday. In another previous post I described very tight steering. This was my first trip with rebuilt 2-tooth box. Still too tight, but not unworkable

Are you familiar w/driving Model As? Have you driven/compared yours to other Model As?

[Russell Reay]

Originally Posted by katy

Are you familiar w/driving Model As? Have you driven/compared yours to other Model As?

No I haven't. I often think I should try another car, but my brain skips a beat when I should ask.

[jb-ob]

Russell, Have you considered installing a Burtz engine ?
Those owners never complain about their brakes .

[Russell Reay]

Originally Posted by jb-ob

Russell, Have you considered installing a Burtz engine ?
Those owners never complain about their brakes .

Too rich for my blood. As nearly as I can determine, my rebuilt engine is just fine, limited only by the operator's ability to properly adjust the distributor and carburetor. I don't think I would be any better off with a Burtz.

[jb-ob]

Russell,

Your missing out on a lot of fun telling the 'anti-board' authorities your new engine came in a wooden crate. They'll get all nervous & jerky !

[2speed]

It's truly amazing how many people on this forum have poured their own babbitt bearings using tin scraped from Campbell soup cans and old batteries, hand filed them in, and then drove from Prudhoe Bay Alaska to Key West at 75 mph, because they know better than Ford.


The sevice bulletins, from Ford state pretty much what Purdy says, and then states about the distance the brake pedal is depressed and what happens at each of those steps. That's what the board does, hold the pedal at the RECOMMENDED distances, by Ford so that you can adjust your brakes. It then states to not touch your rod lengths.

[Terry Burtz, Calif]

Originally Posted by 2speed

It's truly amazing how many people on this forum have poured their own babbitt bearings using tin scraped from Campbell soup cans and old batteries, hand filed them in, and then drove from Prudhoe Bay Alaska to Key West at 75 mph, because they know better than Ford.


The sevice bulletins, from Ford state pretty much what Purdy says, and then states about the distance the brake pedal is depressed and what happens at each of those steps. That's what the board does, hold the pedal at the RECOMMENDED distances, by Ford so that you can adjust your brakes. It then states to not touch your rod lengths.

2speed, thanks for your post. This thread has morphed from brake rods to main bearings made from battery lead and tin scrapings from Campbell Soup cans, which were line-bored with a file and driven at 75 mph from Prudhoe Bay, Alaska, to Key West, Florida.

My question is: Do the scrapings need to be from Campbell soup cans, or will scrapings from other cans work as well?

[2speed]

Only from the Chunky variety. The higher acid content of the condensed soups make the tin not as desirable.