New Oil Pump Comment

[Terry Burtz, Calif]

A31Woody posted the following comment on social media regarding the performance of the new oil pump installed in one of the new engines with 17 pressure-fed bearings. I do not know what the previous oil pump was.

Went for the first drive in #557 this morning with the new oil pump installed. Night and day difference.

After getting to temperature, no lower than 10psi at idle and a good 30-35 psi at speed. I’m running Mobil 1 15w-50. SW 0-50psi gauge.
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[2speed]

It would be nice to have performance comparisons.


Stock Pump
Modified Pump
Nettles Pump
Etc.

[AL in NY]

That's exactly the oil pressure numbers I get with my Stipe oil pump which has been in the car for 30 of my 35000 miles on the rebuild Model A engine. Also using Mobil 1 15W50.

[JOHNCL]

Does the new Burtz oil pump require the spring between it and the oil pan bottom like a stock unit?

[katy]

Originally Posted by Terry Burtz, Calif

new oil pump installed in one of the new engines with 17 pressure-fed bearings

Can someone list these 17 bearings for this doofus?
TIA

[Terry Burtz, Calif]

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Katy, Can someone list these 17 bearings for this doofus?

5 Crankshaft main bearings, 5 Camshaft bearings, 4 Connecting rod bearings, Rear crankshaft thrust bearings, 2 camshaft thrust bearings = 17 pressure-fed bearings.

If you use our new oil pump or another that delivers a high volume, you can drill the 8 tappet bosses to have oil pressure lubricating the tappets for a total of 25 pressure-fed bearings.

[Terry Burtz, Calif]

Originally Posted by JOHNCL

Does the new Burtz oil pump require the spring between it and the oil pan bottom like a stock unit?

John, thanks for the question.

The spring is not needed because the oil pump is clamped to the cylinder block.

The spring was intentionally omitted because we had a builder who didn't read the Builders Guide and installed a modified oil pump without the clamp, but it had the spring at the bottom.

The engine had a knock because the oil pressure would push the pump down, which relieved the pressure, and then the spring at the bottom would return the oil pump to its mating position with the cylinder block, causing a knock.

[JOHNCL]

Thanks, Terry. My new pump arrived and I see the clamp you provided.

BTW, when I did my first build several years ago I made a pre-oiler by using an old body from an oil pump drive minus its shaft and gear such that with a long shaft with a flat blade end slipped into the oil pump shaft's slot I used a drill motor to pump oil through the entire system. The cam was in place.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by JOHNCL

Thanks, Terry. My new pump arrived and I see the clamp you provided.

When I got my new pump and noticed the clamp in the package I emailed the vendor to ask what it was for. Very quick and complete response, but perhaps an instruction sheet might save future customers some head scratching. (Or, having the customer read the Builders Guide…) I now remember Terry talking about that at a seminar I attended some time ago.

And as a bonus, you now don't have to use that special gizmo to hold the oil pump in when you drop the pan!

[katy]

Thanks, Terry

[Hotrodfil]

I didn't use the clamp when testing the prototype pump. I fitted my Burtz block with an early sump so we could swap pumps easily without dropping the sump every time. No knock encountered with the pump running at full pressure.