Front shock vs brake rod

[Russell Reay]

A recent post on the Facebook MAFCA page showed a brake rod that has been bent to clear the front shock. Responses all agree that the shock is a later V8 shock, and the solution is to install the correct model A units or friction shocks from Speedway Motors. I have the same issue, but am not inclined to spend the necessary $$ for correct shocks. I have created a functional bend in the rod, but prefer to change shocks. What does anyone say about those friction shocks?

[Will N]

Doesn't look too functional to me. Looks like the bow would straighten out as more pedal pressure was applied, eating up braking force.

[Hotrodfil]

That ain't safe.
Friction shocks are all but useless.
I'd fit Rotoshims.

[The Master Cylinder]

Originally Posted by Russell Reay

A recent post on the Facebook MAFCA page showed a brake rod that has been bent to clear the front shock. Responses all agree that the shock is a later V8 shock, and the solution is to install the correct model A units or friction shocks from Speedway Motors. I have the same issue, but am not inclined to spend the necessary $$ for correct shocks. I have created a functional bend in the rod, but prefer to change shocks. What does anyone say about those friction shocks?

Those look like the Rotoflo shocks Bratton's used to sell.

Originally Posted by Hotrodfil

That ain't safe.
Friction shocks are all but useless.
I'd fit Rotoshims.

Rotoshims would be nice if you could get them. They are as expensive and any other knee action shock tho.

[nkaminar]

A slight bend is probably OK as it will not straighten out. But the bend shown in the photo is too curved and will effect the braking performance. The brake arm can be bent a little while at room temperature. That may give the required clearance. Absolutely straight rods are the best.

[Bob C]

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Roto-flo shocks.

[Herb Concord Ca]

I have friction shocks on my slant T/S. Front and rear. They do a decent job. I switched to friction shocks after numerous rebuilds that always leaked.

[Russell Reay]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

A slight bend is probably OK as it will not straighten out. But the bend shown in the photo is too curved and will effect the braking performance. The brake arm can be bent a little while at room temperature. That may give the required clearance. Absolutely straight rods are the best.

The bend in the photo is how I discovered the cause of poor braking. My revised bend (no photo) clears the shock, but I would still prefer a straight rod

[Mel Larsen]

I'm VERY new here so take heed. How much clearance do you need to clear the shock? In my mind if it's only a inch or less, I would make some sort of offset in the rod and still have a straight pull to the brake.

[Russell Reay]

Originally Posted by Mel Larsen

I'm VERY new here so take heed. How much clearance do you need to clear the shock? In my mind if it's only a inch or less, I would make some sort of offset in the rod and still have a straight pull to the brake.

In my case the rod got caught on the shock adjusting stud when the car leaned to the left--going around a right turn. A clearance of 1/4" is enough if body roll doesn't cause my problem

[nkaminar]

Here is the result of some simple calculations. If the rod is bent in a circular arc with the length of the bend 24 inches and the offset 8 inches, if the rod completely straightened out the difference would be over 6.5 inches. If course the rod would not completely straighten out when you put on the brake, but it would still act like a spring and definitely effect the braking.

There is some offset where it would not effect the braking very much. High end cars, like Rolls Royce, used cables instead of rods. No bends in the cables.