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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Glendale, California
Posts: 88
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My son (19) decided after being and still being a Mopar fan, to buy a Ford Model A. More than likely because I have one that he rode in since a before a baby, been in parades getting attention, and helping me with the roadster. I'm so happy for him and proud of him in many ways!
Lately, I've been posting here to solve an issue or two on his '30 Business Coupe ('39 hydraulic brakes for one). When he bought the coupe, the seller had a whole other Model A; minus wood, bolts, screws, and chassis. Mom said nothing stays in the driveway, so it all went into my garage - space mostly dedicated to a '71 Dodge Charger SE (21 year old project), so it's getting tight in there. So, where/how to price and then to sell these Model A parts? Fenders, diff, carbs, lightbar, headlamps, rods, torque tube, complete long block engine, etc... IMG_1907.jpg IMG_1680.jpg IMG_1674.jpg IMG_1675.jpg IMG_1676.jpg IMG_1683.jpg IMG_1678.jpg IMG_1685.jpg |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jamestown, ND
Posts: 717
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I had a storage unit full of parts that came along with three Model A’s that I purchased. I sold many of the parts on this site, Craigslist, eBay and word of mouth to guys with Model A’s. Look at what similar parts have sold for in the past and price accordingly, but don’t turn down any reasonable offer or the parts will be in your garage forever.
P.S. I don’t think there is such a thing as a 30 Business Coupe…..only 28 and 29. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,678
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Get in touch with clubs that are local to you - there are several in the Los Angeles area. We regularly have parts for sale listed in our monthly club newsletter. If you go to the MAFCA website somewhere on there is a listing of the chapters, and contacts for each chapter. Keep a look out for swap meets, again plenty in the SoCal area. And Craigslist is decent also. Pricing - maybe enlist a local club member to help you. But be aware that for most of the common parts you list, there are plenty around, and lots of folks looking to now get rid of their hoards, so don’t expect to get rich.
Those fenders and running boards might be valuable to the right person looking for sheet metal. Rear fenders differed per body style, figure out what they came from.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan (under reconstruction) 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Epping N.H.
Posts: 3,695
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Going by the rear fenders I'd say coupe or roadster.Going by the seat,I'd say coupe.Shipping anything but small stuff has now gone by the wayside.Who wants to pay to ship a fender now,(unless it is new or NOS,or something rare).
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Jamestown, ND
Posts: 717
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 6,861
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The heavy stuff you will have to sell locally through Craigslist or your local club. The light stuff that can easily be shipped can sell of eBay or the national Model A magazines. To price the stuff try and find similar items that are for sale and see what people are asking for them. Try to get a range of asking prices.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,599
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[QUOTE=sandbug;2419162]Thanks all! Mistake, his is a '31 Business Coupe!
1930-31 had Standard Coupe, De Luxe Coupe, and Sport Coupe, no Business Coupe. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,689
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I never have any luck selling things. Perhaps you can put an add in the local club newsletter, and sell everything as a gross. That way you can be done with it, and pick up the space.
I have been known to give parts away to some of the guys in my club that need them to get their car on the road again. That does not mean it sits on their garage floor, or workbench forever. |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,597
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Here is the MAFCA list for the SoCal Regional Group. https://scrgmafca.com/Chapters.html
There are a few swap meets during the year but those require you to load and haul what you want to sell then bring home what doesn't sell. Figure out what you want for all of it and sell it as a group. Otherwise you'll be stuck with the common stuff forever. You could make your son buy a shed for a corner of your yard to store his parts....... |
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#11 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2025
Posts: 28
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Don’t forget about Facebook marketplace. I check that regularly for local parts.
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millbrae, CA
Posts: 550
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Pricing needs to reflect your objectives and priorities. If you want the best price and have space and time, the price is different from when you want more space quickly. I generally price things to sell quickly. If the market is unstable or dropping then you may be best off by leading with a lower price than the current market.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: long beach ca
Posts: 230
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Sandbug; there's a car show and swap meet here in chatsworth, CA november 2nd, 2025 put on by the SFVMAFCA. Mostly Model A parts for sale. Contact: Jim Lank (818)367-4757
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Redondo Beach, CA
Posts: 7,295
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Going by the front fenders, they are 1930 with the two piece splash apron.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 6,458
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Facebook Marketplace, one of the Facebook Model A groups buying selling pages, there are several or Craigslist. You have over the 10 minimum posts requirements here so you can post in the classifieds here.
__________________
I know the voices aren't real but damn they have some good ideas!
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Glendale, California
Posts: 88
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Thanks all! Yes, we were told when we bought it, that it was a Business Coupe.
The instrument panel is a '31, but that doesn't mean anything. The exterior color of turquoise is pretty, but it is not a Model A color, and the velour and fabric interior is not standard Model A. The '39 hydraulic brakes and juice master cylinder are not 28-31. The map light is powered by a wire poking out of the instrument panel top to the dash rail. The rumble seat is a converted trunk. It's not running on 4 Houdaille shocks. Yes, will call Jim and will try the Santa Anita A's again (I'm the Webmaster for the site )You can't read the engine block numbers. When we are under the car today, I'll look for any frame numbers. |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Epping N.H.
Posts: 3,695
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That wire for the light is how it is done.You won't find a frame number crawling under the car,it is stamped on the top of the frame rail,under the body and splash apron.You have to jack the body up,and slide the apron and the webbing out.Depending on where the car came from,the frame may not even be stamped at all.I have two apart right now that show no signs of ever being stamped.If the numbers were ground off there would be divots in the frame deep enough to get to the bottom of the numbers.Bare steel,zero pitting,frame rails like new.
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,873
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go to sold items on ebay and there is your pricing. of course people ask pie in the sky prices and never get them. that is the most "real Time" you will find, as to value and being current.
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