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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1,453
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Is a Columbia 35-36 specific to those 2 years?
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,557
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35 & 36 have a unique mount for the radius rods
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Snohomish,WA
Posts: 1,131
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There is also an early and late version with different counts
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,455
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The axle housing is the hard part. You could use a 37-41 housing by adding the bracket for the radius rod and cutting off the spring hanger. 35-41 is the same width.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Liberty, KY
Posts: 1,024
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Wouldn't a 37-41 be a bolt in as an assembly?
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1,453
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 927
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Yes, they bolt in.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Cairns , Australia
Posts: 888
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34fordy, yes you could drop a 37-41 in if you changed the radius rods and drive shaft too from a 37 on.
What controls do you have to shift from low to high? |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1,453
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 538
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I didn't like the look of mounting the control valve on the cylinder head of my flatty. On my 32, I mounted a 36-37 vacuum control on passenger side of the K member, drilled and tapped the clutch cross shaft to attach a lever rod to activate the main valve. Made a custom cable for the hi/lo shift. Works great and you don't see the control valve. Maybe you could do the same. I also have an original electric control set up that I am not going to use, if you decide to go that way.Whatever you do, you want to make sure there's a way to disable the valve if the clutch is not engaged. This way you will not accidentally damage the unit.
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,557
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I made mine a manual shift like the Ruxtel in model T's
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,132
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Mid-Coast Maine
Posts: 3,346
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I didn't care for it either, I made a bracket to mount the vacuum switch just in front of my steering box, welded a tab to the clutch arm and then fabricated up some 1/4" OD rod; threaded both ends for a clevis one end and the other a connection to the switch. It works super. Love the Columbia!
__________________
Archives of historical but relevant older articles: ------------- Hover mouse over the links below and click! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~--------------- Rumble Seat’s Notes Techno Source for the 1932 thru 1953 Flathead Ford |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 538
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cas3
Good job making that work. I was highly considering the manual shift like you did, but it just wasn't coming together. Yours looks great. |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Fort dodge, Iowa
Posts: 1,453
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,557
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Yes, its all done with the hand shift lever. Bad news is you don't get the speedometer correction. I thought it may take some learning to shift it, but no, it shifts just fine like any synchronized transmission.
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,557
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And yes Denny, poor spelling! I've had 2 of the model T units over the years and should know better!
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,132
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It's not a problem at all (and I didn't mean any disrespect); it's just that i am constantly amazed at the knowledge (both general and specific) possessed by the members here.
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Beverly Kansas
Posts: 5,557
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Not a problem here either, just admitting my mistake, and poking you back a little!
Happy motoring. |
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