The Ford Barn

nkaminar · 09-20-2025, 08:49 AM

In general Bronze will wear better, but Aluminum is good for many miles. It really depends on the alloys used for the Bronze and Aluminum.

dansluck · 09-20-2025, 01:55 PM

Werner, The advantage of a bronze bearing seal is that it has a thrust shoulder. If the thrust on the rear main is broken or cracked the aluminum seal can be replaced with the bronze seal and help prevent crank forward movement. The bronze is stronger than the type 11 babbitt I use. When doing a complete babbitt job I use them to take the stress of the other 3 thrust shoulders. I have successfully used them as a partial fix when a club member wants to keep his car on the road. Dan

Gene F · 09-20-2025, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dansluck

Werner, I would remove the rear cap and check the clearance with plastic gauge (green) if you can get it. Another option is to use aluminum foil. A strip folded to about 3/8 x 2 inches (measures .002 of an inch thick) in the rear cap. Turn with hand crank just a little to see if it moves. It should not. It should hold with 2 strips and turn with 1 strip. Remove shims as needed. If the thrust is broken in the block check out Berts Model A Store on-line for a bronze rear main seal with thrust. Part # A-6336. Good Luck! Dan in Reno Nedada

"Bronze Rear Main Thrust Washer- USA made. Replaces the A6335 rear main seal. Gives the engine a better rear main thrust surface." dansluck, how do you even install that thing? Can he do it with the motor in the car?

Werner · 09-21-2025, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gene F

... how do you even install that thing? Can he do it with the motor in the car?

Yes, that would be very interesting to me as well. I found this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8MH3HtTnshQ.

According to it, the installation only requires to remove the oil pan. If I understand correctly, that's related to the crescent-shaped sealing washer too.

Dankeschön!

Charlie Stephens · 09-21-2025, 04:09 PM

Did you remember the gasket between the block and the flywheel housing?

Charlie Stephens

Werner · 09-23-2025, 02:22 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

Did you remember the gasket between the block and the flywheel housing?

Charlie Stephens

The oil isn't dripping along the oil pan, but only from the clutch housing. -

Has anyone ever done this repair from underneath with the engine still installed?

Benson · 09-23-2025, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

Did you remember the gasket between the block and the flywheel housing?

Charlie Stephens

I agree that if missing or gasket is damaged that this gasket will leak from bottom of flywheel housing AKA "clutch housing".

Werner · 09-23-2025, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benson

I agree that if missing or gasket is damaged that this gasket will leak from bottom of flywheel housing AKA "clutch housing".

Benson,

thanks, but I can not open the attachment.

nkaminar · 09-23-2025, 04:15 PM

I had the leak between the flywheel housing and block that has been talked about. The only cure was to take the engine out, use a different flywheel housing that was flat, and put the gasket in with plenty of gasket cement. The oil was dripping from the bottom of the flywheel housing. In my case I had to take the exhaust manifold off to see the leak.

The Master Cylinder · 09-23-2025, 04:32 PM

Sometimes it helps to put fluorescent dye in the oil (or coolant) to trace a leak. You can see the leak with an ultraviolet light and trace it to it's source.

MrWrench · 10-27-2025, 11:42 PM

So what did you do to fix the Babbitted main cap? I am faced with a rear main cap almost the same. I’m hoping I can get a shop that can repour my lower cap half and mill it, fingers crossed!

The Master Cylinder · 10-28-2025, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrWrench

So what did you do to fix the Babbitted main cap? I am faced with a rear main cap almost the same. I’m hoping I can get a shop that can repour my lower cap half and mill it, fingers crossed!

Since I planned on keeping this car and touring, I decided to pull the engine and have it completely rebuilt with inserts installed at the advice of my machinist because I don't want any (hopefully) issues down the road.

Werner · 10-28-2025, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrWrench

So what did you do to fix the Babbitted main cap? I am faced with a rear main cap almost the same. I’m hoping I can get a shop that can repour my lower cap half and mill it, fingers crossed!

I haven't done this work yet. I've been a bit ill and can't lie under the car for long periods of time.
But I took an oil sample, and spectral analysis didn't reveal any noticeably increased metal abrasion.

The Master Cylinder · 10-28-2025, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Werner

I haven't done this work yet. I've been a bit ill and can't lie under the car for long periods of time.
But I took an oil sample, and spectral analysis didn't reveal any noticeably increased metal abrasion.

When the bearing comes apart in chunks, like mine did, it may not show any metal abrasion!

Werner · 10-31-2025, 03:59 PM

Hallo und guten Abend.

I've only made a little progress. The two nuts on the rear bearing cap are so tight that I can't loosen them.

I'll have to try it again with an impact wrench tomorrow. In the oil pan, I only found a little steel shaving, 3 x 2 mm and 0.05 mm thick.

However, the aluminum camshaft gear was rubbing against the cork gasket that protrudes on the inside. Since the oil pan and filter screen were clean, the sludge is in the oil filter.

A note for those who insist on using unalloyed motor oil: The picture shows how clean the oil pan and the intermediate plate are. They were only degreased with brake cleaner. I use exclusively 20W-50 HD Oil classified API SC.

Bis morgen, beste Oelfinger Gruesse!

Y-Blockhead · 10-31-2025, 04:08 PM

Please don't use that blue silicone gasket sealer. I have seen way too many expensive engines ruined because of it. Although the Model A engine does not have a lot of oil passages, it does tend to plug things up.

Benson · 10-31-2025, 04:30 PM

I agree.

Same problem with the orange silicone gasket sealer!

More that a few times I have seen it plug up oil drain passages and oil drain pipe in rear main bearing caps especially when too much was used.

Pieces of the silicone break loose and flow down passages and plug them up.

Werner · 10-31-2025, 05:23 PM

Yes well, thanks for the important/helpful information. That's thick "Hylomar H" what I use. It was also called "Rolls Royce Paste" 50 years ago. It stays soft.

What recommendations do you have, please?

Dankeschoen!

Randall · 11-01-2025, 07:44 AM

Werner , put a piece of pipe on your tool to break it loose https://youtu.be/8MH3HtTnshQ?si=5Cu0E0l7BJ8JgZsJ

TomInCologne · 11-01-2025, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Werner

Yes well, thanks for the important/helpful information. That's thick "Hylomar H" what I use. It was also called "Rolls Royce Paste" 50 years ago. It stays soft.

What recommendations do you have, please?

Dankeschoen!

I‘ve seen people applying it with a roller, so you only have a very thin layer and any additional amount can be cut-off prior to putting everything together again…

Bitte sehr…

09-20-2025, 08:49 AM	#21
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 6,847	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid In general Bronze will wear better, but Aluminum is good for many miles. It really depends on the alloys used for the Bronze and Aluminum. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

09-20-2025, 01:55 PM	#22
dansluck Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Nevada Posts: 245	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid Werner, The advantage of a bronze bearing seal is that it has a thrust shoulder. If the thrust on the rear main is broken or cracked the aluminum seal can be replaced with the bronze seal and help prevent crank forward movement. The bronze is stronger than the type 11 babbitt I use. When doing a complete babbitt job I use them to take the stress of the other 3 thrust shoulders. I have successfully used them as a partial fix when a club member wants to keep his car on the road. Dan

09-21-2025, 04:09 PM	#25
Charlie Stephens Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,320	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid Did you remember the gasket between the block and the flywheel housing? Charlie Stephens

09-23-2025, 04:15 PM	#29
nkaminar Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Western North Carolina Posts: 6,847	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid I had the leak between the flywheel housing and block that has been talked about. The only cure was to take the engine out, use a different flywheel housing that was flat, and put the gasket in with plenty of gasket cement. The oil was dripping from the bottom of the flywheel housing. In my case I had to take the exhaust manifold off to see the leak. __________________ A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past.

09-23-2025, 04:32 PM	#30
The Master Cylinder Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: The Moon Posts: 1,158	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid Sometimes it helps to put fluorescent dye in the oil (or coolant) to trace a leak. You can see the leak with an ultraviolet light and trace it to it's source. __________________ The Master Cylinder Enjoying life at the beach in SoCal... Last edited by The Master Cylinder; 09-23-2025 at 07:41 PM.

10-27-2025, 11:42 PM	#31
MrWrench Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2025 Posts: 1	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid So what did you do to fix the Babbitted main cap? I am faced with a rear main cap almost the same. I’m hoping I can get a shop that can repour my lower cap half and mill it, fingers crossed!

10-31-2025, 04:08 PM	#36
Y-Blockhead Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Redondo Beach, CA Posts: 7,288	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid Please don't use that blue silicone gasket sealer. I have seen way too many expensive engines ruined because of it. Although the Model A engine does not have a lot of oil passages, it does tend to plug things up. Last edited by Y-Blockhead; 10-31-2025 at 04:58 PM.

10-31-2025, 04:30 PM	#37
Benson Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Central Highlands, Cen~Col Posts: 2,891	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid I agree. Same problem with the orange silicone gasket sealer! More that a few times I have seen it plug up oil drain passages and oil drain pipe in rear main bearing caps especially when too much was used. Pieces of the silicone break loose and flow down passages and plug them up. Last edited by Benson; 11-01-2025 at 10:18 PM.

10-31-2025, 05:23 PM	#38
Werner Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2019 Location: Germany, near Aachen Posts: 1,312	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid Yes well, thanks for the important/helpful information. That's thick "Hylomar H" what I use. It was also called "Rolls Royce Paste" 50 years ago. It stays soft. What recommendations do you have, please? Dankeschoen! __________________ Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version

11-01-2025, 07:44 AM	#39
Randall Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lambsburg Va Posts: 372	Re: Big oil loss on rear sid Werner , put a piece of pipe on your tool to break it loose https://youtu.be/8MH3HtTnshQ?si=5Cu0E0l7BJ8JgZsJ