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#1 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 10,542
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1) Can I swap the entire "guts" from a '37 - '41 distributor into a '36 distributor?
2)How about between early and late '36 distributors?
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"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you". |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Jacksonville FL
Posts: 5,164
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Following…..I know for sure it’s not a direct swap for the 32 distributor, it takes a minor modification…..I “believe” it’s a direct swap to the 40 & 68’s but not 100% on that!!!
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#3 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Quote:
Is the '37-'41 the 11A plate? If it is, then I believe so. The 11A is reported to be the best version of the "helmet" dizzies. I don't fool with the helmet style distributors, but if I found an 11A plate, I would consider it. I don't know enough about the differences between an early & late '36 dizzy to say it will go into an early one. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,455
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I’ve done it but it’s been a while. It’s all a direct fit as I recall. I’m thinking if you use the later rotor you’ll need to use the later caps. Early rotor use early caps. If my memory is correct.
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#5 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Milwaukee Wi
Posts: 98
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The late 36 Flat top Dist uses the same points as the 37-48 and I believe the 11A parts fit
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: South Texas
Posts: 2,135
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Quote:
The "late" 36 distributor, the "snuff can coil" unit, will swap all internal parts up through the 1941 "11A" distributor. The 11A advance is a nice upgrade, all other parts are the same. The early 36 distributor, the 33-36 unit, can swap the 37-41 shaft and point plate, but must use the early rotor and inner caps. The 11A advance can be a nice upgrade, but the point adjustment is more frustrating. The 33-early 36 distributors are wider and longer than the late 36-41 distributors. The early rotor and caps fill in the extra distances when compared to the later parts. With effort you can also go the other way, putting the bigger early rotor and inner caps in the later distributors. You have to shorten the front of the rotor, file down the rotor tips, and file the inner cap contacts to match. It is a lot of work for little gain, only do this if you have spare time and otherwise good used early inner rotor and caps with tips burned by arcing. I did this twice using later housings that allowed the point adjustment hole to be added allowing use of the complete early guts with externally adjustable point gaps. The distributors run nice, but the only possible advantages are the ability to get very small rotor to cap gaps, and the ability to use early points with their easier adjustment. I don't think I will do this again. Last edited by 38 coupe; 09-06-2025 at 02:17 PM. |
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#7 | |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 10,542
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Quote:
__________________
"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you". |
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kansas
Posts: 734
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Quote:
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5,394
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As mentioned by 38 Coupe: Yes to the late 36 distributor with the flat top coil. If using 41 internals do swap all internals since they are matched set.
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#10 |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 10,542
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Thanks again guys. Much obliged!
__________________
"I can explain it for you. However, I can't understand it for you". |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: McMinnville, TN
Posts: 2,468
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We do it all the time. If the engine has dome pistons, the 11A guts are prefered. Youll use the early rotor and the later everything else. The cast iron housing has to be swapped or if you use the original the stamped steel dust ring needs to be removed.
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