My new 1930 2-dr sedan

[atch]

Another (in the line of thousands of) question:

What oil do you folks use?

[nkaminar]

There are a lot of different opinions regarding oil. I use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil. It has zinc additive in it that increases engine life.

Whatever oil you decide to use, use a detergent oil. The multiple grade oil will be good for both winter and summer.

If you have an oil filter the oil live will be extended. I go about 2,000 miles. I have a full flow oil filter that filters all the oil. No oil filter then 500 miles is about right.

[atch]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

There are a lot of different opinions regarding oil. I use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil. It has zinc additive in it that increases engine life...

That's exactly what I use in my 1948 Ford panel truck (GM crate 350) so using the same in both vehicles eliminates one (small) headache of keeping different products.

Originally Posted by nkaminar

...Whatever oil you decide to use, use a detergent oil. The multiple grade oil will be good for both winter and summer...

Great; see above.

Originally Posted by nkaminar

...If you have an oil filter the oil live will be extended. I go about 2,000 miles. I have a full flow oil filter that filters all the oil. No oil filter then 500 miles is about right.

I don't see an oil filter anywhere on the exterior of the engine. What I've found in pix (on the web) has it on the passenger side between the carb and the front of the engine. Is this what you're talking about?

[Herb Concord Ca]

Two types of oil filter additions, both external. One on the valve cover the other on the side timing gear cover. The one on valve cover is full flow the other is part flow. Pros and cons to each.

[David in San Antonio]

I always turn off the fuel about three blocks from home. There is just enough fuel left to pause in the driveway, open the garage door, and pull in. The engine idles for about 30 seconds before quitting. If I don’t run it dry the garage smells strongly of fuel.
I also use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing Motor Oil. You can go down a deep rabbit hole researching oils. “The Motor Oil Geek” is a scientist on YouTube. He has a good explanation of why you should never use an oil additive.
The discussion about oil filter system add-on (full flow vs partial flow) is also a deep rabbit hole. I even had an engine builder refuse to add an oil filter system to my engine because he’d “seen engines blow up” because of it!

[atch]

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I just got home from church driving the A. I turned the gas off as I turned off of the road into my driveway. I had to wait a few seconds for the door to go up and right in front of the garage door there is a short incline. Not too steep but you definitely know you're on a hill. Car died just as I got it in the garage. It stopped at just the right place. Right where I would have stopped had the gas still been on.

That will be my MO from now on.

I'd like to drive to French Lick next yar. Round trip that's over 500 miles so even if I change oil just before leaving I'll have to either 1) change oil while I'm gone, OR 2) go more than the recommended 500 miles between oil changes. Based on conversations above I don't see any reason to change oil during the trip.

I have no way of knowing the actual mileage, but I've figured out how to get there without getting onto any interstate highways. Going through STL will be miles and miles of city streets though. Strictly using I-70, I-64, and a couple of feeder roads Google Maps says about 5 hours and 350 miles. I figure twice that time in a Model A. Maybe more.

[atch]

Today we did a photoshoot at the Williamson Burr Oak Tree, the largest burr oak tree in Missouri and tied for the largest one in the US. Before I (& Sherry) snapped the photos a group of adults reached around the tree and it took eight of them. In one photo I'm standing by the tree for perspective.

[German guy]

I leave my driver's side up while garaged and it has not caused any sag. I mounted the hood retainer a little closer to the middle because I feared sag. It just involved drilling another hole in the mounting brackets. I see no reason why leaving both sides up would be different.

[1930artdeco]

Maybe I missed what you have for a carb and head combo but I drive mine on the freeway all of the time. Before I installed the OD I was running (still am actually) a 5.5 head and a Marvel carb. Plenty of power for me to cruise at 52 all day long, I just have to be a better driver than all other morons on the freeway that are distracted. Prefer to stay on slower roads but if I have to I will.

[atch]

I know absolutely nothing about Model A carbs so I snapped a couple of photos for you all to peruse. Is this an original Ford Model A carburetor? If not what do you suppose it is? I've been told that the plug in the intake manifold above the carb is where the vacuum line for the windshield wiper motor hooks into. Is it worth the hassle to reconnect the wipers? The wiper arms and vacuum motor are still there but obviously disconnected. Do they actually work worth a hoot? I've been using RainX on my 1948 Ford panel truck for 50 years and don't mind doing the same for the "A". Also did these things not have an air cleaner? That worries me; we live on a dusty gravel road.

[Herb Concord Ca]

That is a Zenith Carb. Stock for a Model A. Like your shut of valve in the gas line, not stock but works great at stopping gas flow. I have that style valve on both my A's.

[1930artdeco]

OK, even with the Zenith on my car I could get her up to 50ish, it just took a little while longer. No there was no air filter on these cars.

Mike

[atch]

Originally Posted by Herb Concord Ca

That is a Zenith Carb. Stock for a Model A. Like your shut of valve in the gas line, not stock but works great at stopping gas flow. I have that style valve on both my A's.

Fuel ball valve was installed by some former owner. I'm not sure why as the original valve under the tank seems to work just fine. As I pull into the garage I turn off the original and let the engine die from fuel starvation.

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

OK, even with the Zenith on my car I could get her up to 50ish, it just took a little while longer. No there was no air filter on these cars.

Mike

1. I live on a dusty gravel road. Have any of you retrofitted an air cleaner on your car/truck? I'm thinking Ill try to do something and any suggestions would be very welcome.

2. Are you saying that a carburetor change will add horsepower? This thing goes as fast as I'll ever need it to so I doubt I'll ever change it (has Mitchell OD) but I'm trying to gain all the knowledge I can wrap my pea brain around.

[atch]

b-t-w; and f-w-i-w:

In the first 26 days I've owned this Model A I've driven it 575 miles. I've been reading oil change threads on here and it appears that most folks don't drive that far in a year or more.

[1930artdeco]

Not an expert at air cleaners for these carbs. BUT, yes you can retro fit them, HOWEVER, if you do I think that you would be best suited to add a filter that sticks up vertically since these carbs can leak fuel and soak the element (I.E. fire hazard). Also, I have heard that you need a rather large element so as not restrict the air flow. Others will chime in with more specs.

As far as changing carbs out, if this carb works for you (speed/power/MPG) then stick with it. If in the future you want more power which is good if you need it in a pinch, you can use a Marvel/Allstate (best of the A and B world) or a Model B carb-will need to enlarge the intake manifold to take full advantage of the carb.

Mike

[atch]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Not an expert at air cleaners for these carbs. BUT, yes you can retro fit them, HOWEVER, if you do I think that you would be best suited to add a filter that sticks up vertically since these carbs can leak fuel and soak the element (I.E. fire hazard). Also, I have heard that you need a rather large element so as not restrict the air flow. Others will chime in with more specs...

Mike

Thanks. That sounds like good advice and I would never have thought of it.

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

...As far as changing carbs out, if this carb works for you (speed/power/MPG) then stick with it. If in the future you want more power which is good if you need it in a pinch, you can use a Marvel/Allstate (best of the A and B world) or a Model B carb-will need to enlarge the intake manifold to take full advantage of the carb.

Mike

Thanks. I'm not thinking of changing it out; just trying to get educated.

[atch]

I was thinking about ordering the Les Andrews books but decided to first search everything that came with the Model A.

Lo and behold; I just found that Vol I and Vol II of the Mechanic Handbook and the Troubleshooting & Diagnostics books are in a bag of goodies they gave me.

Now I've got a LOT of research to do.

[atch]

I was thinking about ordering the Les Andrews books but decided to first search everything that came with the Model A.

Lo and behold; I just found that Vol I and Vol II of the Mechanic Handbook and the Troubleshooting & Diagnostics books are in a bag of goodies they gave me.

Now I've got a LOT of research to do.

[David in San Antonio]

It appears that your car does not have the engine pans in place. These bridge the gap between the sides of the oil pan and the frame rails. They keep road dirt from flying up into the engine compartment and being sucked into the carb. Some people say they also help engine cooling. It seems that mechanics found them to be a pain in the neck when dropping and reinstalling the oil pan, so threw them on the scrap pile by the thousands. I figure if Henry Ford could save a dime or two by eliminating an unnecessary part he would have done it.
Something to think about.

[atch]

Originally Posted by David in San Antonio

It appears that your car does not have the engine pans in place. These bridge the gap between the sides of the oil pan and the frame rails. They keep road dirt from flying up into the engine compartment and being sucked into the carb. Some people say they also help engine cooling. It seems that mechanics found them to be a pain in the neck when dropping and reinstalling the oil pan, so threw them on the scrap pile by the thousands. I figure if Henry Ford could save a dime or two by eliminating an unnecessary part he would have done it.
Something to think about.

I've never heard of "engine pans." I've got to research that.

...long pause...

So I've Googled them and found some information. 1) They are readily available, both new and used. 2) Each side uses two oil pan bolts and three bolts into the frame.

Living on a dusty gravel road I agree with David that it might/should prevent a lot of airborne dust from entering the engine through the carburetor and therefore would be worth the money and time to install them.

Does anyone have an estimate of the time required to install these? I'm guessing 1-2 hours for one person. Does that sound right? Is there any reason that it could require more than one person?

According to the Les Andrews Vol. I book it appears that you remove (or maybe just loosen) two oil pan bolts on each side of the engine, put them back in through the two tabs on the engine pan (or slide the tab slots under the loosened bolts), and install the three engine pan bolts into the frame. This on each side. I don't see any need to drop the oil pan or even remove/loosen more than these four bolts. Does that sound like I've got it figured out?

Another question: do the engine pans interfere with an oil filter with the 90° adapter?