Things I should Know-long trip planned

[tubman]

Originally Posted by RGC1

Thanks for the info , I will try and go over everything with a fine tooth comb and with some pointers from you guys will give me a heads up going in.
Thx

That's actually not a bad idea. There are a lot of little things to be aware of with these vehicles. The electronic ignition thing is one; another is beware of current replacement timing gears when rebuilding an engine. Word has it that the currently available examples have a tendency to self-destruct at 5000-8000 miles. Cheap contemporary ignition components are also suspect, especially capacitors; get your replacements from a known source and a name brand. There are reports that some currently available inner tubes are questionable. I personally had a bad experience with a new aftermarket oil pump I installed in my last rebuild. It would not produce oil pressure up to factory specifications, and I ended up solving the problem by replacing it with a good used Ford pump. The list goes on and on. There is a lot of knowledge and experience on this forum, so if you are in doubt, just ask.

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by 38 coupe

I follow the antique car trip version of Murphy's law: if I have it with me I won't need it. I carry a spare carburetor, fuel pump, water pump, generator, regulator, points, condenser, cap, rotor, spark plugs, coolant, engine oil, gear oil, tools, jack, and a big 4 way lug nut wrench. So far my theory has worked, I have driven 60,000 miles, give or take a few thousand, and my rear axle is what broke! Drove the car home after calling local V8 Club members and getting help (one member cleared his car port and helped wrench on my car, the other club member donated a third member for my axle).


Test driving your car first is crucial. I also believe in the 5, 50, 500 mile theory of antique car reliability. Drive 5 miles, and fix what goes wrong. When 5 miles provides no more drama start driving 50 miles at a time and fix what goes wrong. When 50 miles provides no more drama start driving 500 miles at a time and fix what goes wrong. When 500 miles provides no more drama you have a reliable car.

Thanks it’s good to hear stories such as this and input on what to take, so with any luck I may not have to much trouble on the distance I want to go. The test driving sounds about bang on with what I will try and do makes total sense to me and is similar to what we currently do when restoring cars for customers right now, most of these cars I mention are 60 s era , but sales rules apply. Thanks for your input much appreciated !!!

[rockfla]

RGC1
It's been stated here on few other post BUT I can relay our experience.....Were it me, I would "X" off your list the 3:25 gear set. We swapped our 32 rear gear from 4:11 to 3:54's WHICH for here in Florida was a tremendous improvement BUT when we took our car out to California in 2004, it was quite the effort to pull the "true" mountain's around Laguna Seca and Monterey peninsula. ALSO the hills around Palos Verdes in LA were 1st and "maybe" second gear pulls as well....SO I would NOT go any higher than 3:54. IMO 3:73 to 75 would be perfect BUT where you gonna find those.

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by tubman

That's actually not a bad idea. There are a lot of little things to be aware of with these vehicles. The electronic ignition thing is one; another is beware of current replacement timing gears when rebuilding an engine. Word has it that the currently available examples have a tendency to self-destruct at 5000-8000 miles. Cheap contemporary ignition components are also suspect, especially capacitors; get your replacements from a known source and a name brand. There are reports that some currently available inner tubes are questionable. I personally had a bad experience with a new aftermarket oil pump I installed in my last rebuild. It would not produce oil pressure up to factory specifications, and I ended up solving the problem by replacing it with a good used Ford pump. The list goes on and on. There is a lot of knowledge and experience on this forum, so if you are in doubt, just ask.

Thanks for that advice on where I’m purchasing parts…….kind of funny I do that with customers cars all week use this not that because of quality …..so I better remember that doing mine……..when comes to the 60s era I have it mainly figured out………but I better figure it out for this…….guy gets shopping by price and forgets his own rules regarding finding out the quality parts . Thanks I think I needed that wake up call. Just like buying an electronic ignition thinking he is doing a big upgrade only to find he paid a bunch for more problems. But good point on oil pump , timing gears ,points, condensor quality. So much cheap quality stuff being made now. Thanks for your input

[ford38v8]

Nobody has mentioned a KRW type drum puller yet. This is an essential tool that no other tool can replace. Originals are rare, older repops are scarce, the newer repops are just as good and readily available. Caution: there are many hub pullers out there, but only one type will work on your Ford. KRW type.

[mfirth]

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Originally Posted by tubman

That's actually not a bad idea. There are a lot of little things to be aware of with these vehicles. The electronic ignition thing is one; another is beware of current replacement timing gears when rebuilding an engine. Word has it that the currently available examples have a tendency to self-destruct at 5000-8000 miles. Cheap contemporary ignition components are also suspect, especially capacitors; get your replacements from a known source and a name brand. There are reports that some currently available inner tubes are questionable. I personally had a bad experience with a new aftermarket oil pump I installed in my last rebuild. It would not produce oil pressure up to factory specifications, and I ended up solving the problem by replacing it with a good used Ford pump. The list goes on and on. There is a lot of knowledge and experience on this forum, so if you are in doubt, just ask.

Dey Denny, had the same oil pump issue in my 52 8BA. Pressure was better with the original oil pump....It was a M-----ngs too.

[mfirth]

Ooops Hey, not Dey duuhhh

[tubman]

Originally Posted by mfirth

Hey Denny, had the same oil pump issue in my 52 8BA. Pressure was better with the original oil pump....It was a M-----ngs too.

Mine was actually Speedway's house brand. "Ol' Ron" had problems with the Mellings pumps (which actually surprises me).

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by ford38v8

Nobody has mentioned a KRW type drum puller yet. This is an essential tool that no other tool can replace. Originals are rare, older repops are scarce, the newer repops are just as good and readily available. Caution: there are many hub pullers out there, but only one type will work on your Ford. KRW type.

Thanks I appreciate that I will get on the hunt for one, that sounds like a good idea . Much appreciated !!

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by rockfla

RGC1
It's been stated here on few other post BUT I can relay our experience.....Were it me, I would "X" off your list the 3:25 gear set. We swapped our 32 rear gear from 4:11 to 3:54's WHICH for here in Florida was a tremendous improvement BUT when we took our car out to California in 2004, it was quite the effort to pull the "true" mountain's around Laguna Seca and Monterey peninsula. ALSO the hills around Palos Verdes in LA were 1st and "maybe" second gear pulls as well....SO I would NOT go any higher than 3:54. IMO 3:73 to 75 would be perfect BUT where you gonna find those.

Thanks appreciate it , I don’t want to under gear it either , so appreciate it, gives me a great reference.

[slowforty]

AAA CARD AND A CHARGED UP CELL PHONE. Best Good luck charms around

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by slowforty

AAA CARD AND A CHARGED UP CELL PHONE. Best Good luck charms around

Haha good advice also !!!
Thanks

[RGC1]

I have changed things up a bit now and just picked up a rebuilt ready to go 1940 flathead, so to save me some time , getting this project ready I will put that motor in it . A few more ponies won’t hurt .

[Lawrie]

Don,t sell the 221 engine short, they are a great engine, m 34 3w with stock engine and trans,6v etc, 3.34 rear end stock brakes .
did a 5600 klm trip in it last year, some temps around 35 C, no drama, drove a couple days in the pouring rain ,never missed a beat, would sit on 60 mph all day

Lawrie

[Adam/Mill Valley CA]

My '36 pickup has a 221 cu in poured bearing motor similar to what would be stock in your '34, I routinely drive 100-200 miles without any concerns, the truck has a 3.78 rear end and is happy at 55-60 mph all day. The best single thing I did for reliability was to have the distributor rebuilt by Charles Schwendler ("NY Charlie)-starts instantly, runs flawlessly.
I've been in the SF Bay Area 50 years, just north of the Golden Gate Bridge, it's true the City has deteriorated in many ways but the beauty remains, it's hard to top looking at the Bridge from the Marin headlands on a beautiful day.
If you do take an Alcatraz tour, be sure to do the Night Tour-ultra creepy!
If you really want to see what long distance travel with a flathead V-8 is about, use the Advanced Search function on the early V-8 forum to find threads started by "Old Henry", a fella from Utah-incredible adventures, documented with video, covering thousands of miles in his '46 (? or '47) sedan.
Adam

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by Lawrie

Don,t sell the 221 engine short, they are a great engine, m 34 3w with stock engine and trans,6v etc, 3.34 rear end stock brakes .
did a 5600 klm trip in it last year, some temps around 35 C, no drama, drove a couple days in the pouring rain ,never missed a beat, would sit on 60 mph all day

Lawrie

Thanks good to know I wasn’t really going to sell it short, to re Babbitt the mains is pretty expensive to have done around here it seems and few and far between anybody being able to do it . My crank is already .020 on the mains and .030 on the rods and probably would need a grind, so I think would be looking for another crank. I understand rod bearings might be hard to get also and expensive if you can get the right size. My bore is already .080 over it may be fine as the pistons look very clean with limited use , but not all apart yet so not 100 percent sure on piston to cylinder wall clearance just yet. Then was a little worried if I did have to rebore I heard .080 May be about the limit on the year of block. These were some of the things bothering me a bit on redoing what I had. Thx

[RGC1]

Originally Posted by Adam/Mill Valley CA

My '36 pickup has a 221 cu in poured bearing motor similar to what would be stock in your '34, I routinely drive 100-200 miles without any concerns, the truck has a 3.78 rear end and is happy at 55-60 mph all day. The best single thing I did for reliability was to have the distributor rebuilt by Charles Schwendler ("NY Charlie)-starts instantly, runs flawlessly.
I've been in the SF Bay Area 50 years, just north of the Golden Gate Bridge, it's true the City has deteriorated in many ways but the beauty remains, it's hard to top looking at the Bridge from the Marin headlands on a beautiful day.
If you do take an Alcatraz tour, be sure to do the Night Tour-ultra creepy!
If you really want to see what long distance travel with a flathead V-8 is about, use the Advanced Search function on the early V-8 forum to find threads started by "Old Henry", a fella from Utah-incredible adventures, documented with video, covering thousands of miles in his '46 (? or '47) sedan.
Adam

Thanks for the information that sounds great and the ultra creepy tour sounds pretty exciting also I’ve talked to a few people who have went but nobody has ever suggested that haha might have to try it, sure it would put the wife on edge. Thanks for the info on your truck gives me a great reference , I need to see what ratio I currently have. I bet the bridge is a sight to see can’t wait. That sounds great I will see if I can find the threads started by old Henry that sounds very, very interesting.

Again thanks for the information

[Lawrie]

I would not be too concerned about the ratio, before we used our 33 for towing the caravan, it had the stock 33 engine and 4.11 rear, it would hum along all day at 55 mph.
It has toured all over Australia like that, including Tasmania and West Australia, so they are not that bad
Lawrie

[glennpm]

Just thinking of a few more items I carry with me. Two long lenghts of wire, red & black with aligator clips for testing or temporaily bypassing, Roll of 16 GA wire, wire strippers, splices terminal ends and a crimping tool. I also carry a good air compressor, not a cheap one, something that will fill your tire fairly quickly. I also carry a tire plug kit, razor blades and good pliers to pull screws and nails out of tires. If you now run tubes, get rid of them. You can seal the wire nipples inside the rims and give yourself the option of a roadside repair.
LED flashlight, Scissors jack and block of wood to put on the ground for the jack, complete tool set, fuses, duct tape, CS tie wire and a bunch of zip ties, can of starter fluid ...

[Flathead Fever]

My dad was in the Model A Club and he always carried a spare distributor, generator and water pump.

When I was a little kid, during the winter months, the club took a trip to Death Velley CA. Something happened to one of the cars on the way there, so they got out the club owners roster book and called a member. We drove out to the guy's house, and he had the part to fix the car. I was too young to remember what it was that had broken, but a couple hour delay and the club was back on the road again. The next year's Death Valley trip they left me at my grandparents so I wouldn't freeze in a rumble seat. There's a steep road that descends into the upper end of Death Valley. On the way there, in the dark, a burro ran out in front of one on the Model A's and it shoved the radiator back into the fan. That was the last year the Model A Club went to Death Valley, or any other faraway places.