'40 Ford window regulator repair-Update

[V8 Bob]

The handle crank shaft snapped on my coupe's left door regulator. I bought a commonly available repair kit , but it looks like the large main gear has to be removed to gain access installing the new cup rivets. I don't see any way to remove the gear other than grinding off the end of the spring stud on the back side of the main body. Problem is this replacement bolt/stud main assembly part is not included with the kit. I've searched for installing this repair kit without success, so I'm here hoping to find answers.
I have ordered a new set of complete regulators, but would still like to repair my original regulator. Thanks.
Bob

[fordyford]

I have done it using "pop rivets"

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by fordyford

I have done it using "pop rivets"

I was also going to use pop rivets instead of the solid rivets in the kit, but there is not enough room to place one rivet because the gear is angled to the main frame and too close. The only option I see is removal of the gear, but destroying the assembly stud in the process.

[Karl Wescott]

Drake is still showing reproduction regulators available for the coupe. Might be a viable option. I am a dealer, as is Michael at Third Gen, etc.

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by Karl Wescott

Drake is still showing reproduction regulators available for the coupe. Might be a viable option. I am a dealer, as is Michael at Third Gen, etc.

Thank you Karl for the offer, but I placed an order with Drake yesterday for the pair.

I still want to try and repair the regulators I have.

[325w]

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It’s not a hard repair. Pop rivet where you can then use a tube rivet in the other spot.

[V8 Bob]

Originally Posted by 325w

It’s not a hard repair. Pop rivet where you can then use a tube rivet in the other spot.

Have you performed this repair on a '40 regulator, as there is only just over 1/16" working clearance on the problem hole?

[V8 Bob]

An update. I found if you remove the lower travel stop bolt, the main frame can now move away from the main gear, allowing full access to either side of the drive assembly. The only modification is removing about an 1/8" X 3/4" strip of metal at the end of the gear, above the stop bolt, to allow the drive gear clearance to re-engage the main gear.


Next is removal of the OE shaft pin and installing the supplied bushing for the new pin which comes pressed into the new shaft.


Original rivets were 5/32" and is what I'll use, either the supplied solid or on-hand tube style. With full access to the cup, pop rivets are not needed or the best option imo.


Bob

[Planojc]

Thanks for the update.