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#21 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 600
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If I remove the rear end I have left the spring connected to the rearend. You want to mark the spring and the frame with a paint marker so when you install the rearend back in the car you will know that it is centered and the square head on the bolt that ties the leaves together go's back in the square hole. Also I have two 16" ford rims with no tires on that I put on the rear brake drums to get the rearend lowered so I can roll it out from under the car. Worked out good for me!
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#22 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 2,676
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Quote:
I suspect that most on this forum would caution you against this practice.
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JayJay San Francisco Bay Area ------------------------ 1930 Murray Town Sedan (under reconstruction) 1931 Briggs S/W Town Sedan It isn't a defect, it's a feature! Last edited by JayJay; 12-18-2024 at 11:12 PM. |
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#23 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2022
Location: Canton, Michigan
Posts: 388
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To all, I want to thank all the comments and recommendations that have been presented here. I will return the Clutch and pressure plate back to Snyders and will get both from Bert's (model A store). I won't do anything here until I get the recommendations from the crew here at the Barn.
Besides me doing all the brakes and backing plates and king pins, this will be the most major work I have attempted on my 'A'. All help and criticism is justified. I am still a Newbie as I have only had 'Darla' since 2022. Thank you all! it is greatly appreciated and helpful. Dave
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--------------------------------------- 1929 Model A Tudor - "Darla" '29 Model A: Old enough to start with a crank, young enough to steal the show! "Stay away from negative people, they have a problem for every solution" Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Motor City A's Club |
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