|
|||||||
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
![]() |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 463
|
Went to winterize the '35. The pet cocks would not turn, they were frozen. Started to remove one pet cock from the block but I could not remove it due to interference with the front cross member. I could not get it out. Have any of you guys had a similar problem in removing them? Any help or suggestions
would be appreciated. Thanks Mike |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lower Hutt , New Zealand
Posts: 2,167
|
Was a bit worried when I saw your header for this post. Whew !......... I'm glad the text has clarified it.
GB
__________________
"you can't make honey out of dog sh*t" "You're a long time looking at the lid" |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 1,811
|
Maybe loosen both front motor mounts (a lot) and jack up the engine far enough to get clearance for the petcock to turn. To avoid the risk of wringing off the brass petcock, I would drain and flush the radiator and put in the proper mix of anti-freeze.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,581
|
Did you try to turn it with a pair of pliers? Sometimes they get sticky.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
Posts: 934
|
The petcock is made with a two piece brass friction fit tapered bore. That's why they can be stuck and hard to turn to open . If it's impossible to remove the petcock from the block then you can just do the flush as drolston suggested and leave the petcock in place.
__________________
1935 157" 1 1/2 ton stake truck undergoing full original restoration 1936 131 1/2" panel truck rescue preservation Author of the 1935-1936 Ford Model 51 V8 Truck book published by the Early Ford V8 Club of America |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 463
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
|
Can you apply heat to it?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,906
|
Boy, that was a Hell of a post title! LOL
|
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 663
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: East Boothbay, Maine
Posts: 319
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 324
|
Can you post a picture?
|
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Fairfax Station, VA
Posts: 934
|
flathead34
If you want the petcock to work, it's probably best to remove it, disassemble and clean it. Heat may not help as the corrosion preventing it from turning is an oxide of brass on both parts and doesn't quite react the same way as iron oxide does to heat. Also, be careful when you try to remove it from the block. The section of the valve which goes into the block is hollow and your are going to be fighting brass-iron corrosion. If it shears off, then you have a much bigger project on your hands.
__________________
1935 157" 1 1/2 ton stake truck undergoing full original restoration 1936 131 1/2" panel truck rescue preservation Author of the 1935-1936 Ford Model 51 V8 Truck book published by the Early Ford V8 Club of America |
|
|
|
![]() |
|
|
| Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|