First time poster... with a couple of questions.

[dsglass95]

Skip did get back with me and he did say to send the condenser with the coil and he would test it. I did find a condenser listing on Napa's website that is supposed to be for this car,(ECH FA5). I have had to do some searching for the inner caps, seems those are getting hard to come by. Since this car has the 18mm plugs, I am planning on buying wires for a '37, as the plugs (40-12405) don't seem to be able to have the ends unscrewed for the brass rings that are on the '32-36 wires. This car does not have the brass ringed wires on it now. It looks as if Midwest Early Ford has every thing I need, but I did ask Skip a couple of questions about my distributor, so I will pull the trigger on the parts once I hear back from him. Again, any advice will be very helpful. Thanks.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Just so you don't get confused by the prior post -- it is an offset "tang" that fits into a slot on the front of the camshaft. The tang is offset - so make sure you're not 180 degrees off and try to force the bolts in. Many a newbie has done this and cracked the distributor housing.

Not trying to step on TJ's shoes - he is mentioning a very important aspect of our 32 - 48 Ford Flatheads!

Thanks for clarifying my post. For some reason the word "tang" (which is the correct word) did not bubble to the top of this old brain.

[Terry,OH]

What you have is a old aftermarket NAPA coil with the bear logo on top. Suggest just ask Skip for another Ford script rebuilt coil for the 33-36 distributor you have. He can supply another tested condenser and could rebuild your distributor, all at the same time.

FYI some Fluke meters do not read high enough in ohms to test the coil. Typically they are some of the clamp on meters for reading high amp usually used in HVAC work. If you have a 77 or 87 meter they will auto range and read high enough, the display will also show what scale the reading is such as M (Meg ohm) or K (Kilo ohm) Sounds like your very close to having the car running!!!

[dsglass95]

Hello all. Just an update on my progress with the '32, since its been a while since I posted. I got all my parts back from Skip, and was able to get the car running over the following weekend. It seems to run pretty good for sitting as long as it has. So now I will be looking to move forward with the other issues it has over the winter. The steering gearbox has lot of play in it, and the water pumps are leaking. So I will be possibly looking into someone who has experience with the gearbox to maybe rebuilt it, and I might hit Skip up again for the water pumps. Bob Drake also lists water pumps for this car, anybody have any experience with them? Again any insight would be of great help, and thanks for the help so far.

[drolston]

The Dennis Carpenter water pumps I put in helped cooking at idle, and did not hurt cooling at highway speed by cavitation.

[Conrad Rossi]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by dsglass95

Hello all. Just an update on my progress with the '32, since its been a while since I posted. I got all my parts back from Skip, and was able to get the car running over the following weekend. It seems to run pretty good for sitting as long as it has. So now I will be looking to move forward with the other issues it has over the winter. The steering gearbox has lot of play in it, and the water pumps are leaking. So I will be possibly looking into someone who has experience with the gearbox to maybe rebuilt it, and I might hit Skip up again for the water pumps. Bob Drake also lists water pumps for this car, anybody have any experience with them? Again any insight would be of great help, and thanks for the help so far.

Glad to hear it fired up. I would go with Skip especially if they’re original Ford parts. Skip rebuilds them to modern standards and has been servicing this forum for +12years.

[Seth Swoboda]

I'm located in Southern Illinois near Nashville, IL. I'll send you a PM.

[pistonbroke]

How far are you from Hannibal Mo? Tim

[kingeak]

I’m new to this Forum as well but have throughly enjoyed reading this thread. Lots of great suggestions.

I too have been waiting (fuel pump in my case) to get my Dad’s 37 Ford coupe back on the road.

[DavidG]

It's fascinating that no one mentions the non-Ford bumpers on the car. I wonder what they are from?

[Zeke3]

Originally Posted by kingeak

I’m new to this Forum as well but have throughly enjoyed reading this thread. Lots of great suggestions.

I too have been waiting (fuel pump in my case) to get my Dad’s 37 Ford coupe back on the road.

Get with Michael at Third Gen Automotive, he can fix you up with a pump. Welcome aboard. I also have a 1937 coupe, that needs a lot of work, and would like to see more pictures of your father’s car.

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by DavidG

It's fascinating that no one mentions the non-Ford bumpers on the car. I wonder what they are from?

David
Very similar to this 32 Semi Custom I have a picture of.

[deuce lover]

The ones on the OP car appear have squared off rolled ends

[dsglass95]

Hello all. I have been away due to a death in the family, but now that the weather is warming up some, I am back to working on the 32 when I have time. But of course I have a couple more questions. But first @ pistonbroke, google says I am 158 miles from Hannibal Mo. So here are the questions. I am in the process of replacing the water pumps and lower water inlets. When I removed the inlet on the right side of the engine I found a casing number of '12' cast in the block. Anyone know if this might mean anything? It is the only block casting number I have found so far. Also. I have determined that this car does not have a 32 block in it, but right now I am not sure what year between 33 and 36 it is. And I also need to rebuild/replace the generator, as the one on the car the armature shaft is bent. Any might know where I might find one, or the parts to fix mine? I f anyone has any ideas, I am all ears. Thanks, Darrin.

[tubman]

For the generator, check out the work of user "ndnchf" on this forum. He does great work.

I'll leave the block ID to the pre-war guys.

[V8ER]

For generator work, "ndnchf" is Steve Blancard. 540-809-2046. One call does it all.

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by V8ER

For generator work, "ndnchf" is Steve Blancard. 540-809-2046. One call does it all.

Thanks. I was just looking at his posts. I will touch base with him and see what he can do.

[dsglass95]

Originally Posted by tubman

For the generator, check out the work of user "ndnchf" on this forum. He does great work.

I'll leave the block ID to the pre-war guys.

Thanks I will look him up.

[signsup]

If you do send something out for rebuild or are waiting a while for another attempt, you might consider adding a blub or two of MMO into each cylinder and bumpt the starter or roll it over by hand every couple of days. Keeps rings and cylinders from sticking and might free up som piston rings and give you some more compression. It sat in the same spot for 20 years, keep it moving when you can.

[dsglass95]

Thanks for the tip. I had it running for the first time back in October, and drove up and down my lane a couple of times. It sat till I started it a couple weeks ago right before I took the water pumps off it. I squirted a little 40:1 two stroke mix down the carb and it lit right off. Sat and idled just like it was supposed too. That was a relief since what it took to get it running, and the fact that I am still learning how to work on this old ford.