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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Smithfield, NC
Posts: 374
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I’ve been working on getting my 34 pickup put together as a test fit before tearing it back apart to get prepped and sprayed with epoxy primer. Cab and bed mounted as well as running boards and all 4 fenders.
I am having an issue with bolting (clamping) the splash apron in place where the gap between apron and grille shell looks right (see picture, too much gap) how much gap should there be there? Caveat; pass fender doesn’t have a hole in it to bolt to the top of the frame horn. It does have holes on flange where apron is bolted to fender. Driver fender does have hole in fender to bolt to top of frame horn but it does not have holes on flange to attach apron (had to weld on a flange) Of course need to mark and drill holes mentioned above but would like to get it aligned better. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,052
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Is the radiator 1" high?? Frequently rad shops do not get the top tank back on right. Newc
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Smithfield, NC
Posts: 374
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Newc, no clue on the radiator as far as what’s been done to it ( if I could get measurements of an unmolested rad I can check mine). I’ve only had it pressure tested and cleaned. There is an extra 1/8” shim on pass side of the rad and the small rubber pad that comes with rad bolt kit of driver side.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Napa,California
Posts: 6,773
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In the photo it appears to me that part of the lip of the splash apron where it goes under the shell is bent upwards.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Forney, Tex.
Posts: 158
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The ones I have have a lip that turns up on the back edge and fills the gap between the apron and radiator shell, but there is still a 1/2" to 3/4" gap on both my trucks. One is an all original 33BB and the other a pieced together pickup Maybe some one trimmed that lip off on yours. And, the hole you have on the lh fender should be on the rh too. Maybe it is a 32 fender..
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Forney, Tex.
Posts: 158
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Smithfield, NC
Posts: 374
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Quote:
There are no holes yet on rh fender because I had to add the flange and I have not drilled holes yet. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Smithfield, NC
Posts: 374
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I think I got it sorted now. good enough for me. Looks and measures square , even , level or how ever you want to call it. It’s not perfect but matches the rest of the truck.
Now on to mounting tail lights and finding some front and rear bumpers. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,722
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__________________
1928 "A" Phaeton (mid year with many early features) 1933 "V8" Closed-Cab Pickup Truck (originally a Model B, 4 Cylinder dating to May, 1933)
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,722
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__________________
1928 "A" Phaeton (mid year with many early features) 1933 "V8" Closed-Cab Pickup Truck (originally a Model B, 4 Cylinder dating to May, 1933)
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 1,722
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DR .... I see you got it, my '33 is slightly tilted and warped but you got the idea.
__________________
1928 "A" Phaeton (mid year with many early features) 1933 "V8" Closed-Cab Pickup Truck (originally a Model B, 4 Cylinder dating to May, 1933)
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Smithfield, NC
Posts: 374
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Yessir, I was being a little picky about closing that gap but realized I was sitting on the ground with a straight on vantage point vs what I would see from a standing position vantage point. Thanks for the picture.
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