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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#21 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Awesome thank you…I’ve located on SW. Should I purchase a new torque converter? The transmission came with one.
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 357
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There is a combination of differences in torque converters. 24 or 26 spline and different diameters. If the one you have fits the conversion you could use it. So far I have been lucky and all my c4 parts were the correct ones for the conversion. I still need to get a starter
My adapter is similar to this (picture) except the adapter is welded steel. Got it at a swap meet . It’s got no markings so I don’t know where it was made.
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I am building a 1939 1 ton express Last edited by ActionYobbo; 10-03-2024 at 09:21 AM. |
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#23 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Last edited by tyd_76; 10-03-2024 at 09:36 AM. Reason: Additional comments. |
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#24 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 321
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The speedway kit is all you need. You have the option of either the 157tooth or the 164tooth kit. I believe your bell housing and torque converter need the 157 T kit. You need to verify this before you order it. PM me or google C4 auto identify and read the article on the pigseye.com website.
Read post #8 |
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#25 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Last edited by tyd_76; 10-03-2024 at 02:53 PM. Reason: Spelling correction. |
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#26 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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Gramps Last edited by Ol' Ron; 10-05-2024 at 08:46 PM. |
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#27 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Oh, how I wish I could have found or find one of these 😌.
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#28 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Quote:
(Tag) PEE C X 7F8 B2 Last edited by tyd_76; 10-03-2024 at 05:20 PM. Reason: Added to paragraph. |
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#29 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Quote:
PEE C = Mustang, maybe 289. X = Not sure? Others seem to start with a “D”…. 7F8 = June 8, 1967 B = Not sure? I’ve seen “Buffalo” on a search. 2 = Not sure? I’ve seen “2nd shift” on a search. You guys are really solid on here. Thank you. |
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#30 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,132
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If the "Mustang guys" are anything like the "Corvette guys" I know, decoding that definitively should be no problem.
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#31 | |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Quote:
Last edited by tyd_76; 10-03-2024 at 10:36 PM. Reason: Removed emoji(??) |
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#32 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 321
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You only need to know three things:
1). Bell housing style. 157 tooth is physically smaller than the 164, that is good. It also has the case fill box, which is also good, as the pan fill tube sticks out a lot further. 2). You need the torque converter to fit the matching flex plate, which I believe you already have, and this is confirmed by the stud spacing (PCD) of the 157T flex plate. 3). Drive shaft yoke. You will need this to adapt to your original drive shaft. It is not difficult, you don't need to over think everything. Make sure you fit all the components to each other. Fit the torque converter to the gearbox. That should fit because it came with the box, correct? Fit the flex plate to the torque converter, the studs should go all the way through. You need the correct metal plate. speedway's will fit either bell housing as it has two sets of holes for the starter. You use the later starter (small block Ford). Make sure the starter has clearance to the block. I think you need to grind a little off the block or starter. I used the V8 starter with the solenoid on the side and found the solenoid interfered with something (exhaust or chassis) I got a starter from a 6 cylinder and it has the solenoid at a different angle. ps. Your adapter is just a flat crescent shaped 3/8" plate that has both the 8BA and SBF bolt pattern. It does not look anything like the adapter in post #22. Last edited by 69a; 10-04-2024 at 06:54 AM. |
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#33 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Good morning…You are correct. I, too realize I maybe overthinking things a tad before even getting started, however first time doing transmission stuff with my vehicle(s) and just ensuring I’m taking all necessary and precautionary steps
. I need some woosah cruising wellness in my future . 1. Yes sir 2. Yes sir, the torque converter came with the C4. 3. I will need to purchase this drive shaft yoke adapter. What am I looking for? I will be purchasing the 157t kit from Speedway today. I am currently utilizing a Snap Rebuilders Ford high torque mini starter. Is there a recommended shifter kit to be able to adapt to my column shifter? What does this entail? Based on most of the information reviewed, 1967 was a floor shifter. I’d like to use my column and stay somewhat with the original vibe if possible. Thank you kindly for the instruction and guide. This is awesome information that I will surely use. I appreciate it. Last edited by tyd_76; 10-04-2024 at 07:21 AM. Reason: Added to response. |
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#34 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 357
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For the shifter limeworks makes a conversion that looks good. limeworks safety shift. How’s your fab skills? There is a few parts made from flat plate and some welding and drilling if you want to make it yourself
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I am building a 1939 1 ton express Last edited by ActionYobbo; 10-04-2024 at 08:17 AM. Reason: Fix what spell correct changed |
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#35 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Good morning sir…Sweet, I’ll check out Lime Works. Minor fab skills on small items, nothing crazy, but I nevermind trying for some things. I suppose, since LW has one on the market, I’ll just secure one of these. Thank you for sharing this info. I appreciate the assistance.
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#36 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 321
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The starter you need is a Small Block Ford V8 or six cylinder equivalent. Read my post #32 about the orientation of the solenoid on the side of the starter. This starter bolts to the C4 bell housing.
You need the front portion of the driveshaft that goes into your C4 gearbox, or even a complete driveshaft. Once your installation is completed you can put the driveshaft into the gearbox and see what you need to do to mate this to your diff. Measure the length you need to lengthen or shorten it. You probably need the shoe box back half and the C4 compatible front. You need to make it at least 1/2" shorter to allow for installation and suspension travel. Talk to your driveshaft guy, or someone here may advise. I made mine too long the first time and I couldn't get the driveshaft in. |
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#37 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Ok, copy that on #32. I do have the original starter laying around and understood. Ok, I see now in what you are saying with the drive shaft. Yes, for sure on the shops around here. Once I get most needed supplies, I will be connecting with one of our local transmission shops to weigh in as well. Thank you kindly for the additional info.
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#38 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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F
Gramps Last edited by Ol' Ron; 10-05-2024 at 08:49 PM. |
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#39 |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 36
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Good morning @Ol’ Ron…it’s seems difficult getting hands on a 50/51 Mercury auto, which would seem to be a more efficient solution. I would love to go this route, but I think the C4 once in place will do me right. Any advice on a drop in column shift steering column that I could bolt right in to utilize with my C4? Most columns seem to be 33” in length or shorter, which appears to be shorter than the original 50 Mercury column. I’ve been looking at some options. A couple search threads that I saw said the original 50 column can be used, but how with it being a column shift manual? Anyhow thank you kindly for the reply. Stay safe, blessed, and be well.
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#40 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2022
Posts: 357
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I sent you a PM with a link to another site showing how to convert your column to use it with the c4
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I am building a 1939 1 ton express |
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