'36 221 - rebuildable??

[sjaakslinger]

More progress!

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[38 coupe]

Nice!

[Bored&Stroked]

Great progress! You're really doing this engine as it should be done - congrats on that.

Note: It looks like you have the incorrect bolts for the cam timing gear. You want to use the original "shoulder bolts". If the bolts you have do not have the correct shoulder on them (non-threaded), then there is a chance the cam-gear can move.

Pull one of them out and post a picture - then I can tell you for sure if it is an issue or not. The original style bolts are available new from Third-Gen . . . or there are lots of them lying around as they used the same style for many years.

[Bored&Stroked]

Top-End: Hopefully you're putting the later 49-53 style valves and guides in the engine. The later setup is much better than the original "split guides" and mushroom stem valves that came in the engine.

[jers36]

I was reading your article about the different numbers on your engines heads. I have a 36 PU and it has the same numbers 68-6049B and 68-6050B. I have seen other 36's with the same numbering but I don't know why. What really got my attention was when you were trying to define if it has insert or babbit bearings. I think my engine is original to the truck but of course I have no way of knowing for sure. My engine has large block off plates where on newer engines the water pumps mount on the front of the block. Is this a definite sign that you would have a LB engine?

[sjaakslinger]

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Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Top-End: Hopefully you're putting the later 49-53 style valves and guides in the engine. The later setup is much better than the original "split guides" and mushroom stem valves that came in the engine.

Yep, later style!

About the cam gear bolts. I'd have to check with the rebuilder. I did buy the set (bolts and that 'securing plate') from 3rd GEN, so it should be the correct ones.

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[sjaakslinger]

Originally Posted by jers36

I was reading your article about the different numbers on your engines heads. I have a 36 PU and it has the same numbers 68-6049B and 68-6050B. I have seen other 36's with the same numbering but I don't know why. What really got my attention was when you were trying to define if it has insert or babbit bearings. I think my engine is original to the truck but of course I have no way of knowing for sure. My engine has large block off plates where on newer engines the water pumps mount on the front of the block. Is this a definite sign that you would have a LB engine?

Those 68- prefix heads are later (not factory) installed heads as far as I've understood. Those block off plates in the front mean your engine block itself is '37 or later. For the original '36 look, they put on those plates and used the '36 heads.

So after 1936 all the engines had the insert bearings.

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[jers36]

Thanks for the info, you just really made my day! The thought that I may have babbit bearings has always been a dark cloud over my head. I admire your determination to learn and rebuild your engine. You are doing a great job.

[GB SISSON]

I your photo of the new aluminum cam gear it looks like perhaps you are running it with a used crank gear. This is what I did and am not too happy with the noise created by the combination. It was a very loud whirring noise at initial start up that lasted about ten minutes and I was much happier when as became a higher pitched whine. I was told on this forum that it comes from a worn steel crank gear slowly imprinting it's wear into the softer cam gear. I was told that the two gears will slowly 'find each other', but may be at around 6000 miles before it's truly quiet. At this point at maybe 2000 miles, it's the only part of my build I would have done differently. I have been tempted to research if there is an alternative fiber type gear that is neither a 75 yr old ford product or an inferior new 'overseas?' gear. If I'm correct about your new and old gears I would suggest addressing this while it's easily accessable.

[tubman]

Some people pay extra to purchase "Noisy Timing Sets" for SBC's.

[Bored&Stroked]

Originally Posted by tubman

Some people pay extra to purchase "Noisy Timing Sets" for SBC's.

Nothing like the ole' Milodon or Pete Jackson gear drives! Sounds sort of like some blower whine . . . but not nearly as cool!

Sounds pretty good on a Hilborn injected SBC!

[GB SISSON]

So, you two are saying my whirring noise is cool? Then I guess I'll just drive around enjoying being a hot rodder! That was an easy fix...

[sjaakslinger]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I your photo of the new aluminum cam gear it looks like perhaps you are running it with a used crank gear. This is what I did and am not too happy with the noise created by the combination. It was a very loud whirring noise at initial start up that lasted about ten minutes and I was much happier when as became a higher pitched whine. I was told on this forum that it comes from a worn steel crank gear slowly imprinting it's wear into the softer cam gear. I was told that the two gears will slowly 'find each other', but may be at around 6000 miles before it's truly quiet. At this point at maybe 2000 miles, it's the only part of my build I would have done differently. I have been tempted to research if there is an alternative fiber type gear that is neither a 75 yr old ford product or an inferior new 'overseas?' gear. If I'm correct about your new and old gears I would suggest addressing this while it's easily accessable.

Ah, good question, I'll ask the rebuilder. I did provide them with a new crank gear...


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[deuce lover]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

I your photo of the new aluminum cam gear it looks like perhaps you are running it with a used crank gear. This is what I did and am not too happy with the noise created by the combination. It was a very loud whirring noise at initial start up that lasted about ten minutes and I was much happier when as became a higher pitched whine. I was told on this forum that it comes from a worn steel crank gear slowly imprinting it's wear into the softer cam gear. I was told that the two gears will slowly 'find each other', but may be at around 6000 miles before it's truly quiet. At this point at maybe 2000 miles, it's the only part of my build I would have done differently. I have been tempted to research if there is an alternative fiber type gear that is neither a 75 yr old ford product or an inferior new 'overseas?' gear. If I'm correct about your new and old gears I would suggest addressing this while it's easily accessable.

That information about the noise buy using an alu Cam gear was told to me by an old time flathead engine builder when I was rebuilding the 36 LB for my 33. I sourced a NOS fiber gear and used it instead. No noise. My engine had the cam with the press on gear.

[sjaakslinger]

Getting there!

This is probably going to be the best (read most expensive) engine in a patina'd looking 4 door Sedan that's around, but ok... In hindsight we might have better sourced a good running one, but well...no way back now. I saved some money by sourcing all the parts myself and dragging them home from the US.

The car will have a restored chassis, engine, brakes and electric. That we'll all do ourselves. The body will keep it's original look. Who knows, maybe some day we'll do a 5w or 3w body swap.[emoji16]

Dennis

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[sjaakslinger]

Painted.

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[fortyonerag]

Great thread, many thanks. I rebuilt a flatty recently. As a friend told me, "It costs a lot of money to go slow these days"

Loving your work!

[Bored&Stroked]

You will be like a little kid at Christmas time when you first fire it up! You've done a great job in rebuilding this engine and not taking short-cuts that you'll regret later on.

Thanks for all the posts!

[sjaakslinger]

Thanks. The engine looks like a piece of art. Indeed I can't wait to fire it up! That'll have to wait a little while unfortunately. The rebuilder needs the space, so we will move it soon. When the chassis is on it's wheels we will put the engine and trans in. Then it's time for it's first start.

Can't wait to put it on the chassis and put on the generator, carb, starter, etc.

The color is RAL6012 by the way. I think that worked out very well.

Dennis

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[tubman]

That's a lot of green. In more ways than one.

Congratulations on your project. I like "first starts" so much, I built an engine test stand.