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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 950
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I saw this crack repair video on the HAMB. Had to bring it over to my friends here on The Barn.
https://youtu.be/evML7xAo0bM |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Canada Where it snows
Posts: 2,059
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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That is a great video. Provides good incite as to why automotive machining is expensive, time consuming, and requires a great deal of skill with top notch machines and machinists with problem solving ability. Wonder what that particular amount of work cost?
Thanks for posting. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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No time right now, but I'm looking forward to watching this after my dinner. Thanks.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,229
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That's how it's done! Nice work.
__________________
"It don't take but country smarts to solve the problem" (Smokey Yunick) '30 Model A Speedster '41 Merc Town Sedan / 260" 8CM engine '66 Fairlane four door / "warmed up" 302
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,906
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Plano, Texas
Posts: 1,122
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Great video.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 583
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This is an amazing video and it is dealing with exactly what I am working on now. Couldn't have come at a better time in my rebuild dealing with cracks in blocks and how to deal with them. Thanks Ronnie for posting the link to it.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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I guess now we need someone to assemble that engine and run it.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 6,202
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I really enjoyed the video too. Suddenly crack repair is less mysterious and seems practical for us 'stay at home mechanics.'
__________________
Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1946 Tonner Pickup with 226 H six, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, now wearing 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,906
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It is important to note that you must use the special taps that come with the kits. Also, you can order the "pins" in quite a few different sizes.
Sometimes you'll get a slight bit of air weeping around a pin (as shown later in his video). While one can continue to solve every last little bit - it isn't always necessary. I always use a can of Moroso Ceramic Seal when a repaired engine like this is first ran - as another level of insurance. |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 204
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This video came at a good time for me and I watched it with interest. I fixed 2 similar cracks in my 8BA block a couple of years ago. (https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...hlight=Eagle43). I got the truck finished last fall and the motor ran fine on two outings. Earlier this summer it suddenly lost power and ran rough. After trying all sorts of solutions and narrowing it down to having no compression in cylinder #2, I finally pulled the head and discovered that the hardened valve seat I had installed had come loose and was rattling around. The fixed cracks seem to be holding up fine and are almost invisible. I bought a new valve and valve seat and am waiting for the Permatex 64000 high temperature sleeve retainer I ordered online. I think this is the stuff they were using in the video. Loctite 640 should be similar.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 204
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My Permatex Sleeve Retainer came today and I installed the hardened valve seat with this stuff. Tomorrow I plan to grind and lap the valve and put everything back together. Hopefully this seat will stay in place. It seemed to go in there pretty snug.
The first picture shows the installed seat. I've already beveled the inside a bit using my wood lathe. The second picture shows the inside of cylinder #3 which looks good. The third picture shows cylinder #2, the problem one. This one had the deepest crack in the cylinder wall with some distortion and gave me the most trouble cleaning up and trueing the cylinder wall without putting in a sleeve which I'm not capable of doing. The yellow spot is where I ground out a bit too much. I know it's not perfect but I hope things hold together and I get enough compression in this cylinder. Hope to drive the truck this weekend. |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Westmont, Il.
Posts: 173
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Fascinating video. Why is the iron so thin where the crack occurred between the valve pocket and the water jacket? Are they all like that? Is it due to casting variations?
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thread killer |
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#15 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Kansas
Posts: 1,229
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Quote:
They're all pretty thin there. Just not a lot of room for both the port and water to cool it.
__________________
"It don't take but country smarts to solve the problem" (Smokey Yunick) '30 Model A Speedster '41 Merc Town Sedan / 260" 8CM engine '66 Fairlane four door / "warmed up" 302
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,006
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They cool better if the casting is thin. The model B engines may have been too thin around the valves. They crack a lot easier than the model A engines do. The V8s have always been problematic with cracking if the engine is overheated too much. It pays to keep the cooling system in top condition.
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2022
Location: Westmont, Il.
Posts: 173
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Great site. Great info. I pick up some new knowledge everyday.
__________________
thread killer |
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Germany
Posts: 256
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[QUOTE=Eagle43;2333738]My Permatex Sleeve Retainer came today and I installed the hardened valve seat with this stuff. Tomorrow I plan to grind and lap the valve and put everything back together. Hopefully this seat will stay in place. It seemed to go in there pretty snug.
While I do hope that your valveseat stays where it belongs I would not bet on it. The seats are always a shrink fit, so it would not go in the recess without heat and / or force. On an Aluminium Engine it would be 1/250 of the diameter of the seat for correct overlap, on an Iron flathead I use 1/300 as the seat expansion and engine expansion rate are almost the same. That means the seat is always a bit bigger than the recess and will be unable to move. |
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#19 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 204
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[QUOTE=vincent;2334247]
Quote:
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