34 Ford Light Switch too High on Steering Wheel

[My3window]

I have a 34 Ford coupe with the light switch and horn button riding too high on the steering wheel. The gap between the edge of the switch and the top of the steering wheel is 1/4 inch. I have taken apart the lower unit at the bottom of the steering box and made sure the "C" clip is fastened with the spider and spring. The "C" clip is positioned at the very bottom of the horn rod. I'm wondering if I was able to attach the "C" clip higher up on the rod it may allow the upper switch to slide further down on the steering column and reduce the gap. All the lights and horn are working correctly.
Thanks for any help offered.

[ford38v8]

Your horn light rod may be from a later model Ford. Caution, if you need to remove the rod for modification, you'll need to drop the steering box to allow the rod to clear the tube when pulling, unless you have a roll-down rear window in that coupe? There is no shortcut here, the rod will bend if you try, and that's big trouble.

[My3window]

Thanks Alan for your reply. Can you tell me if the C clip is supposed to fit at the very bottom of rod. It looks like if I could move the C clip up the rod about 1/4 inch the hole rod would slip down into the right position. I purchased the rod and horn button NOS years ago from Ford Obsolete in L.A. so I'm fairly sure it is correct for my 34.

[My3window]

I just looked at what a 35 Ford horn button and light switch looks like and I'm sure I have the correct switch for a 34.

[Terry,OH]

The C clip fits about 3/16" above the electrical insulator at the end of the horn rod on the square metal shank of the rod. 34 should have the slightly longer rod because the steering column is slightly longer

[DavidG]

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To the best of your knowledge, has your steering column been replaced post-production?


I ask because the first 5,000 '33 steering columns, light switch rod, etc. were shorter than those that followed through the end of '34 model production. Visually, it is difficult to perceive that minor difference in length.



Hopefully there is another explanation for your problem as removal of a light switch rod in a '33-'34 closed car is a big project.

[My3window]

Thank you both for you comments. I think what may have happened is the C clip has slipped down to the very end of the rod. It could be that the clip has expanded a bit over the years and the there may be wear on the rod end. 3/16ths of an inch would place the upper switch about where it should be on the steering wheel. The switch used to have a closer gap that it currently has. I may have to file a bit of a groove 3/16ths on the end of the tube and crimp the clip a bit so it fastens a bit higher on the rod. Thanks again!

[My3window]

David, I've read that if one removes the steering column bolts from the dashboard and disconnect the C clip, that the light switch can be pulled out by lowering the rear window in a coupe. Have you ever tried this?

[DavidG]

Unfortunately, that won't be enough. You will have to loosen all three bolts where the steering gear is attached to the frame rail and likely remove two of the three. The upper and lower plates around the brake and clutch pedal will have to be removed as well as the sponge rubber weather seal between the two plates. Be very careful as the light switch rod is easily bent and virtually impossible to straighten if bent. It's a project best accomplished with four hands.

Even with a slight bend, you will be reminded of what went wrong when the lights are switched on at every corner.

P.S. The C-shaped clip fits on the rod within a 1/4"-3/8" of the bottom of the rod.

[glennpm]

Getting the C-clip on can be a challenge. Rather than filing the groove deeper, you just need to close the clip up a little with a pair of pliers. They are soft and it can be bent in easily. I wouldn't file the grooves at all.

The C-clip is pushed on the corners of the rod end like below:





Above is partially pushed on and below, fully.





To put the C-clip and spider on, I use small needle nose pliers with a rubber band to hold the clip in the jaws; and a notched upholstery removal tool with a couple of notches for the spider.

[My3window]

Thank you all for the photos, suggestions, advice.

[My3window]

SUCCESS!!!! Thanks Again. It was a bit of a challenge getting the clip in place.

[glennpm]

Originally Posted by My3window

SUCCESS!!!! Thanks Again. It was a bit of a challenge getting the clip in place.

Yes, it can be a challenge, especially when it gets launched to destinations unknown :-)


Glenn

[DavidG]

Glenn,


One additional 'tool' for that job that I learned about from the Model A guys decades ago is an old fashioned wood yard stick. You insert it into one side of the steering wheel from the bottom up and over the horn button and then down under the other side of the steering wheel. They have just the right amount of flex up and over the horn button to holds the rod in place in its extreme downward position making the removal/insertion of the C-clip that much easier to install.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by DavidG

Glenn,


One additional 'tool' for that job that I learned about from the Model A guys decades ago is an old fashioned wood yard stick. You insert it into one side of the steering wheel from the bottom up and over the horn button and then down under the other side of the steering wheel. They have just the right amount of flex up and over the horn button to holds the rod in place in its extreme downward position making the removal/insertion of the C-clip that much easier to install.

David, you kinda beat me to it. I use the Model A tool at the lower end and wow, makes this task simple. Mikes Model A Parts in Georgia has them @$8.
Their part Code: T3643

[glennpm]

Thanks David and Kube,


I was too brief :-)

[FlatheadTed]

early 33 shafts 41" then 33/34 shafts 42" if you lose the C clip one can easily be made out of a split/spring washer .Ted

[V8COOPMAN]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

early 33 shafts 41" then 33/34 shafts 42" if you lose the C clip one can easily be made out of a split/spring washer .Ted

Here's a picture (wrong year) BELOW.

Coop