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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Michigan
Posts: 600
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Anyone have an idea for a wrench modified for loosening the nut that locks the distributor in place? This is a real pain to loosen using the after market exhaust manifold. After the nut is loosened it is easy by using a screw driver to unscrew the locking screw. Any help or pictures of a modified wrench would be appreciated. Afordman31
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Largo Florida
Posts: 7,225
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Maybe a picture would help since I'm not sure what kind of manifold you have. But, most folks have a few wrenches that have been 'warped' to suit their needs.
I've not seen an instance where a straight 9'16" didn't work. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Auburn Washington
Posts: 2,696
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take a 3/8 fine threaded bolt and cut it the same length as the screw turn the end down and just use a 9/16 wrench on it. be careful not to over tighten the bolt.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,211
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A 90 degree screwdriver works
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club Last edited by CarlG; 01-24-2014 at 02:07 PM. |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 8,099
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I did about the same thing on a used HC head. I bought the head at a swap meet and didn't notice that the threads were stripped in the head. I had to go with the next larger size bolt and retap the head
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 6,458
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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This bolt is a real pain in the ass.
I removed it easily enough to switch out distributers and now I CAN'T get it back in? |
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Posts: 12,241
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Quote:
![]() I tend to have the best luck installing the Distributor Set-screw first sans the Lock Nut. Twist the set-screw backwards while pushing against the threads to make sure you are straight, and then begin turning the screw inward. On the off-chance your cylinder head threads are bad, try using a thread chaser or bottoming tap in the hole to clear the threads. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 678
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I agree with Brent....Ernie in Arizona
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,689
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My setscrew has gotten stiff. Now days if I wanna pull the distributor I slip my 9/16 in there and back my lock nut off about 1 turn. Since the setscrew turns with it then I simply pull the distributor up.
Everyone is correct, they need not be very tight. |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 6,847
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Would a set screw with an Allen wrench end work here? My manifold is stock and not in the way so I just use a regular screw driver, but I know some of the manifolds used for heaters get in the way. I guess the other option would be to drill a hole through the manifold to allow a regular screw driver to work, assuming the hole would not go into the exhaust passage. If it did, maybe a pipe plug would work. As far as modifying a wrench is concerned, most wrenches are hardened and hard to bend, so a torch is needed to bend them. Without a photograph, it is hard to recommend how to modify a wrench. I would say just to modify it to fit.
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A is for apple, green as the sky. Step on the gas, for tomorrow I die. Forget the brakes, they really don't work. The clutch always sticks, and starts with a jerk. My car grows red hair, and flies through the air. Driving's a blast, a blast from the past. |
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#12 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Rubicon, Wi
Posts: 27
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Our '30 coupe has an Autolite heater manifold . No problem with a 9/16s combination wrench and a screwdriver through the hole in the manifold. Dale
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