1933 V8: Troubleshooting...suggestions welcome

[deuce lover]

Careful if you blasted the underside .It needs to then be steam cleaned.Grit from the blasting media can get imbedded in the pores and get into the cylinders after installation which can damage the cyl walls once you start running and driving the car.

[Flathead Fever]

I would give it a different supply of fuel and test it. Very carefully put a 5-gallon can of gas inside the car on the floorboard and bypass the fuel system. Disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the firewall and plug it. Have somebody go with you to keep an eye on the gas can. The tank or line might be plugged just enough to let it run up to 45 mph and then it starts acting liking a governor and limiting your fuel. By the time you stop and look at it the carb is filled back up which makes it hard to diagnose. If you suspect the fuel pump you can by-pass it with a 1 1/2-pound electric fuel pump. Check the fuel pump rod length and travel. Maybe the cam lobe that drives it has gone partially flat.

[torpedo]

Originally Posted by Flathead Fever

I would give it a different supply of fuel and test it. Very carefully put a 5-gallon can of gas inside the car on the floorboard and bypass the fuel system. Disconnect the fuel line from the tank at the firewall and plug it. Have somebody go with you to keep an eye on the gas can. The tank or line might be plugged just enough to let it run up to 45 mph and then it starts acting liking a governor and limiting your fuel. By the time you stop and look at it the carb is filled back up which makes it hard to diagnose. If you suspect the fuel pump you can by-pass it with a 1 1/2-pound electric fuel pump. Check the fuel pump rod length and travel. Maybe the cam lobe that drives it has gone partially flat.

Hi Flathead Fever.
Many thanks for your suggestion.
We did this test (not on the road though) and problem still there. Fuel pump doing OK (±1 pint delivered after 30 sec @ 700 rpm).

We are now looking at intake manifold. It's now clean and we have all new gaskets. Before we put it back in we decided to check valve lash. Waiting for delivery of lifter wrench.



Could someone confirm that these are acceptable values:
Intake: 0.10-0.12
Exhaust: 0.14-0.16

Do we check like go 0.10 no go 0.12 ?

[torpedo]

Originally Posted by deuce lover

Careful if you blasted the underside .It needs to then be steam cleaned.Grit from the blasting media can get imbedded in the pores and get into the cylinders after installation which can damage the cyl walls once you start running and driving the car.

Hi Deuce lover
Many thanks for the warning. Indeed the underside was thoroughly cleaned and is free from blast residue.

[torpedo]

Hi to fellow barners,

Completed valve lash checks yesterday. We used 0.10" gauge for intake and 0.14" for exhaust.
Found 3 intake valves out of range. Successfully adjusted back to spec.
Found 2 exhaust valves out of range. OK to spec.

Planning to assemble all parts back to engine today

Crossing fingers...

Thanks to all that provided support here. Fordbarn is really great

[torpedo]

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Originally Posted by 35fordtn

Do you know if the distributor done by us was converted to the later (37-48) points or is original points (32-36).

Hi Michael. Sent you PM yesterday.

[jimvette59]

Clutch.Clutch,Clutch,Clutch.

[torpedo]

Originally Posted by jimvette59

Clutch.Clutch,Clutch,Clutch.

Thanks for your suggestion...

Clutch was replaced earlier this year with quality components supplied by Mac @ Vanpelt.

[torpedo]

Hello Barners,
Unsure if our story may benefit to others but as a tribute to those who tried to help below is the conclusion:
After having performed several checks we ended up renewing/restoring:
fuel filter
carburetor
fuel pump
ignition wires
intake manifold gasket
dizzy (see note below)
valve lash checks


The engine now runs as expected. We are not 100% sure as to what was the cause but we suspect a combination of "not-so-perfect" connection to ground AND "not optimal" distributor setup.


As far as dizzy setup (dizzy#2) and because we marked pulley with cyl1 TDC we found dizzy#2 provided 0,5 deg advance. So we carefully set the index and set it to 4,5 deg advance.

When turning the locking screw to secure the setting it went loose (see pics) three threads gone - BAD - ThirdGen

not so happy because we had to work extra hours to switch back to dizzy #1 and set it to 4 deg advance. The locking screw did not f*** up on this one

We also found that one connection to ground was a bit loose.

A big thank you to Ggmac for the vacuum gauge suggestion. One is now installed in the car and proudly displays a needle in the green !





Video (link will work for a week only): https://www.filemail.com/d/qvnjglpniqbdnus

Once again a big thank you to all at the barn. You guys offered very valuable support to us to go through this very frustrating experience.

Long live the flathead

[Ggmac]

Glad you solved it . Enjoy the ride now .

[Lawrie]

Don’t be afraid to drive it,they are great to travel in,specially on country roads
I take a few simple spares,one is a set up distributor with coil and condenser
Lawrie

[torpedo]

Hi Lawrie. Agree with you ;-)
The plan is indeed to have dizzy, coil and condenser in the spares trunk !
That is the reason why I bought two dizzys from Third Gen.
Unfortunately one of them is bad: on first install the index plate locking nut would not tighten :-( three threads gone !
Still waiting for Michael response...
Take care and enjoy your trip