Model B Ford 4 cylinder identification

[Orca62]

Hi, I just acquired a Model B engine that was in storage for over 40 years. My question is how do I identify what year it is, and if it has a counter balanced crankshaft. Previous owner pulled it from a believe a 1932 Ford couple to install a V-8 engine. Thanks.

[rockfla]

32 4cyl engines started at 5.000,000. and the Decermber ending log number was 5.179,579. Jan 1933 started with 5,179,580 and ended in December log #5,263,534. 1934 was starting 5,263,535 to 5,292,536. The counter balanced crank was put into running production in November of 1932 but NO exact engine number listed as the start!!! SO somewhere around "5,165,402 ish to 5,175,635 ish" started the counter balanced crank....potential rebuilds and or replacements NOT withstanding.

[rockfla]

Sorry but I don't have a picture of the standard B crank compared to a counterweighted counterpart, ALL I have is a B crank (left) compared to an A crank (right). I would "think" the drill holes on the lobes of the crank as seen on the left crank would be the indicator???

[cas3]

Thats my photo above, they are both B cranks, just one early and one late. Sometimes you can see thru the fuel pump hole or the oil fill hole with a flashlight to see if it has the counter balanced crank

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by rockfla

32 4cyl engines started at 5.000,000. and the Decermber ending log number was 5.179,579. Jan 1933 started with 5,179,580 and ended in December log #5,263,534. 1934 was starting 5,263,535 to 5,292,536. The counter balanced crank was put into running production in November of 1932 but NO exact engine number listed as the start!!! SO somewhere around "5,165,402 ish to 5,175,635 ish" started the counter balanced crank....potential rebuilds and or replacements NOT withstanding.

Unfortunately the "engine" number appears on the flywheel housing and he didn't say he had that.

Charlie Stephens

[DavidG]

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If the engine's bell housing is absent, that's where the engine number was stamped. The front timing gear cover will identify it as being a '32 or '33-'34 if the bell housing is missing. Can you provide a photo of the front of the engine?

[rockfla]

Originally Posted by cas3

Thats my photo above, they are both B cranks, just one early and one late. Sometimes you can see thru the fuel pump hole or the oil fill hole with a flashlight to see if it has the counter balanced crank

I stand corrected then!!!

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by rockfla

Sorry but I don't have a picture of the standard B crank compared to a counterweighted counterpart, ALL I have is a B crank (left) compared to an A crank (right). I would "think" the drill holes on the lobes of the crank as seen on the left crank would be the indicator???

[KiWinUS]

Here’s a counter weighted B crank I just removed.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by KiWinUS

Here’s a counter weighted B crank I just removed.

[Newc]

Pressed on counter weights can block the regrinding stones. Intake styles did change a bit. Is there a diamond casting mark on head or block? Newc

[Orca62]

O.K. Thanks for the replies. No bell did not come with it. So I will take photos of front cover and start there. And I will try and look down fuel pump hole to see what I can. Will take me a day or two before I get back on this but will report back. Motor is going into sprint car circa 1940,s. I have a Model A transmission and a lightened flywheel assembly for it. Was looking up adapting the Model A transmission to the B motor. I will only be using transmission for in/out box high gear only. o not know how much of a chore it is to adapt Model A gearbox to B motor. Or just locate a B transmission and gut it. Thanks.

[J Franklin]

If you plan to use the engine, drop the pan and take a proper look.

[Charlie Stephens]

I did exactly what you are asking about several years ago. The engine in my ’31 RDPU was tired and need to be replaced. I had a recently rebuilt “B” engine under the bench. I kept the Model A flywheel housing. I cut off the back of the Model B oil pan since it interfered with the Model A flywheel housing. I left a strip of metal on the pan rather than risk a leak from removing the rivets. Everything bolted together. It is my understanding that if I need to drop the rear main to adjust shims, I might have to pull the engine.

Charlie Stephens

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

I did exactly what you are asking about several years ago. The engine in my ’31 RDPU was tired and need to be replaced. I had a recently rebuilt “B” engine under the bench. I kept the Model A flywheel housing. I cut off the back of the Model B oil pan since it interfered with the Model A flywheel housing. I left a strip of metal on the pan rather than risk a leak from removing the rivets. Everything bolted together. It is my understanding that if I need to drop the rear main to adjust shims, I might have to pull the engine.

Charlie Stephens

[Orca62]

O.K. I got a quick chance to get in the garage today and look at the timing cover. It looks like a 1933-34 cover according to a website. It is going to rain the next 2 days but as soon as it ends I will back out our Corvette and get the B motor out of it's nitch to photograph it and try and take a peek in the fuel pump hole. Yes I will be tearing down the motor pan to see what the bottom looks like then move accordingly what should be done. And thank you for the A box to B engine conversion. Do not know which way to go yet but will keep my options open. Guess my question will be supporting the motor and transmission on the believe 1925 or1926 Model T chassis that the sprint car was made from. Trying to determine holes where engine tranny would have bolted up to the chassis. I will not need a clutch as it will be an in /out box setup but need to determine how the power plant was suspended. I may have a source for a Model B box complete but taken apart. Price will determine that. As I said will be gutting the innards and only be using high gear. And of course modify the shifter handle. My other race car was a V-8 60 tin side with the bell housing chopped off to safe weight and space so the motor was bolted to a motor plate and a Model A gear box gutted with high gear only bolted to the rear of the motor plate and a sawed off bent shifter handle bolted to the back side of the motor plate. And I had a clutch spud on the crank so no flywheel so she could spin up quickly. That is the way she was built and raced.

If I could fit a clutch pedal in the cockpit and an on board starter in this racer it would be more convenient and maybe keep all the gears in the transmission. Racer will be for exhibition shows only. Thank you for the help.

[Charlie Stephens]

I doubt a '33-'34 engine was pulled from a '32. Here is a picture of the front cover for a '33-'34. Note that the mount for the generator sets the generator back towards the rear of the car to allow for the fan to be set back to clear the sloped radiator on a '33-'34. See first photo. The water pump is shorter, see second photo (the '32 is on the left). The front pulley is also shorter (no photo).

Charlie Stephens

[DavidG]

A '33-'34 four will fit in a '32 chassis, especially if it has the early '33 front motor mount bracket with the same front motor mount spacing on the front cross member of 12" like '32s.

[cas3]

Davidg, not a 32 chassis if I am reading this correctly, but model T.

The last 2 years of T production they put a Vin number on the right rail about in the center of the door jamb. They also increased the thickness of the rail about that time which is why it was the preferred dirt track chassis.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Charlie Stephens

I doubt a '33-'34 engine was pulled from a '32. Here is a picture of the front cover for a '33-'34. Note that the mount for the generator sets the generator back towards the rear of the car to allow for the fan to be set back to clear the sloped radiator on a '33-'34. See first photo. The water pump is shorter, see second photo (the '32 is on the left). The front pulley is also shorter (no photo).

Charlie Stephens