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#1 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Burlington WI
Posts: 34
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I purchased 4 nos Houdaille shocks for 1928 to 1932 models in original boxes . The oil in them is very thick like honey and one looks like it is turning to gel .
I want to empty these and refill them with new oil I purchased from Third Gen. Any suggestions on getting the old oil out. I am thinking it would be best to have them cleared of the old oil before refilling them . Any suggestions ? |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: on the Littlefield
Posts: 6,672
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Post a picture of the boxes, originally they had glycerin, later on oil, the style of the box can give idea of era of manufacture date.
It will be interesting to see the shocks and boxes. If the fluid has congealed it is likely glycerin, inside the shock is a check valve at the bottom,, at the top are 2 vent pins, the vent is almost just a scratch on the pin and is likely clogged requiring disassembly. Removal of the adjusting valve would give access to the fluid inside, make something to hold the shock inside a container filled with the new oil and it will purge slowly out the needle valve hole while operating the shock. I ended taking the shock apart totally to clean it, it was used but had no wear, tried just flushing it first but it wouldn’t purge air out ( had free play sort of bouncy then action at each end of stroke) I am using multi viscosity tractor hydraulic oil for Kubota hydrostatic drive |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 1,908
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the filler plug tells what fluid is used by its shape
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,670
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For the record, you mean '28-'31 shocks as '32 shocks are unique, be they the early manually-adjustable B shocks or the auto-adjustable V8 shocks.
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#5 |
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BANNED
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 1,568
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The Model A Ford is a fairly complex part. It has ball checks, needle valves, vent plugs that have very small tolerances. I would bet that all the passages are clogged with the old glycerin oil that originally came in your shocks. If you are contemplating taking your shocks apart you might purchase the booklet by Les Pearson that is available on Model A shock restoration.
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 3,052
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Chester Vt
Posts: 8,985
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Many years ago I had a friend that had aModelA coupe with a flathead it it, Drove it all over the place, Started to put Hydrolic brakes on it, and I didn't see it fot quite awhile, Saw it later at a shop and found the new owner, He bought it finished the brake systen and added some new Camaro shocks. I had a ride in it and it was quite and road like a new car. Not sure of it but you can buy adapters for tube shocks, Someone here can help?????
Gramps |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,006
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Alcohol was recommended for loosing up old glycerin but it depends on how badly it is deteriorated. If it's too far gone then the shock or shocks should be disassembled.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,670
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Ask Andrew Falandes at [email protected]. Likely he will recommend a complete tear down for thorough cleaning and new seals.
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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Quote:
These shocks deserved to be done up right. |
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#11 |
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BANNED
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 1,568
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Just taking the Model A shock apart can be a real project. I have a 1/2" steel plate that I bolt the shock to and use a 3/4" drive, 3' breaker bar with a 1 and 1/2" deep socket to remove the flange cover. The oil reservoir can usually be removed with a good chain or strap wrench. Some people use a 4" Channellock pliers but it can really screw up the cover. Soaking the shock over night in penetrating oil can help. Do not mix up the parts they are different from side to side.
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#12 |
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BANNED
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 1,568
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Do the boxes that the shocks came in have part numbers on the boxes?
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Burlington WI
Posts: 34
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20240304_225447.jpgHere are some of the pictures I took. I hope that I do not need to take them apart. The reason I bought these was to save some time and not fiddle around with rebuilding.Attachment 537652
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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Quote:
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Burlington WI
Posts: 34
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The original boxes say these are for 1928 to 1932 and list the location of the vehicle they should go on. Looking at them for location is self explanatory.
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#16 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Burlington WI
Posts: 34
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Here are the part numbers for the left and right , front and back shocks.
I will take David's advice and contact his shock guy first. |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Rockwall TX
Posts: 6,018
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Your shocks don't even come close to looking like the originals.Maybe that wasn't a concern.Over the counter replacements?
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,227
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I'm curious what David has to say, but these are definitely not for Model A. These are late '32 onward I believe, but I could be mistaken.
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: southeastern Michigan
Posts: 10,670
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Post-1938 service replacements, likely functionally superior to the original Model A shocks. Probably great for driving, but not for an as-built restoration.
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#20 |
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BANNED
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Long Island,NY
Posts: 1,568
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The correct part numbers for Model A shock absorbers are A-18015-B and A-18016-B. The A-18015-B is a clockwise rotation shock for the right front and left rear. The A-18016-B is a anti clockwise shock for the left front and right rear of the car. The shock pictured is not Model A.
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