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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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#41 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeland Florida
Posts: 310
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I never asked him about what chemicals he uses. He has two tanks, one for stripping paint, undercoat and body filler. The tank is heated. Parts stay in for 4 to 7 days and he pressure washes them upon removal. Second tank is for derusting and stays in depending on amount of rust. He washes parts and then applies a rust preventitive which last for a few months.
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#42 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lakeland Florida
Posts: 310
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We have a shop manufactured spreader, a porter power and threaded rod. I usually use the threaded rod because it is the least dangerous. If you are just going to replace the spring without removing the rear axle then I suggest the threaded rod. Remove the clamps holding the spring and also shock arms. Drop the axle as far as it will go. Use two c-clamps to hold spring leaves together. Remove center bolt. Insert a length of 5/16thx18 thread, double nutted on one end (tight) and run a nut up the other end to hold spring leaves tight while you remove c-clamps. Holding the double nut with vice grips slowly loosen the other nut and allow spring leaves to separate. After removing threaded rod remove the spring hangers and you should be able to remove main leaf as it does not have much tension on it.
If I am rebuilding a spring, I sandblast the leaves, paint both sides and apply Slip Plate between leaves and reverse the proceedure. There are other ways to remove spring. If you do a search on this site you should find them. |
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#43 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Albion, PA
Posts: 1,100
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Thanks!
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#44 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 52
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Here are some pictures of using the clamps and threaded rod to remove the leaf springs.
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#45 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 52
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Making some progress on the chassis, front end and brakes.
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#46 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 52
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#47 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 52
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Additional pictures.
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#48 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Albion, PA
Posts: 1,100
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Very good progress!
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#49 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 52
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I meant to let you know yes this one has a rear seat. Like you I have many other projects, this one I just work on Saturdays. Slow going but enjoying every minute of it.
Thanks! |
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#50 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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Quote:
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#51 | |
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mayville WI
Posts: 77
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Quote:
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#52 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 52
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Painted and installed new gas tank.
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#53 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 11,643
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#54 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 52
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Update: Completed rebuilding transmission using Vanpelt parts and specs.
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#55 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 4,211
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Out of curiosity, what gas sending unit are you using with the new tank?
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#56 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Tampa Florida
Posts: 52
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Right now we are planning to use the original. If it does not work then we'll be looking to a replacement.
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#57 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 4,211
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#58 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Albion, PA
Posts: 1,100
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Seth, my experience is the hole for the sender is not large enough for the sender on the Drake tank for an OEM sender.
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#59 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 4,211
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#60 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2024
Posts: 23
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Great building photos. Beautiful work too
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