Throttle & Choke

[41 Ford PU]

After a week or so hiatus to assemble and locate the 4 post lift, I'm back at it.
When I moved the 41 commercial things did not go so well. The first thing was an extremely high rpm. I don't know if it was WOT or not, considering I've never had it at WOT in the past. Then when I moved it, I had oil that was splashing all over the left side of the engine.

So, the car is on the lift after some manual (no engine running) labor.
The high rpm issue was caused by the throttle rod being out of wack. I never had it connected before this episode. So, are the throttle and choke rods the same length? The choke rod works fine. If they are or are not the same length, what is the part number(s) and where can I get them. As long as I'm at it, I'll replace them both.

I believe I have a 59A engine with a holley 94 carburetor. The vehicle is a '41 112" wheelbase commercial.

Any thoughts?

I'll get to the oil issue next.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 41 Ford PU

After a week or so hiatus to assemble and locate the 4 post lift, I'm back at it.
When I moved the 41 commercial things did not go so well. The first thing was an extremely high rpm. I don't know if it was WOT or not, considering I've never had it at WOT in the past. Then when I moved it, I had oil that was splashing all over the left side of the engine.

So, the car is on the lift after some manual (no engine running) labor.
The high rpm issue was caused by the throttle rod being out of wack. I never had it connected before this episode. So, are the throttle and choke rods the same length? The choke rod works fine. If they are or are not the same length, what is the part number(s) and where can I get them. As long as I'm at it, I'll replace them both.

I believe I have a 59A engine with a holley 94 carburetor. The vehicle is a '41 112" wheelbase commercial.

Any thoughts?

I'll get to the oil issue next.

The rods are not the same length nor have they been reproduced.

[Newc]

jumping in - my '39 uses those wire cables instead of the rods. Must be replaced? Newc

[41 Ford PU]

Kube: That's interesting. They do make the joints.
I'll have to look into making them, even if they are for myself.
Do you know what the dimensions are for the various components involved?
It appears that they are epoxied together. Would threaded be an acceptable option?

Mike

[Nick Bernier]

I recently bought a set for my '40 convertible from Obsolete and Classic Auto Parts.

https://www.classicautoparts.com/

Nick

[Kube]

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Originally Posted by 41 Ford PU

Kube: That's interesting. They do make the joints.
I'll have to look into making them, even if they are for myself.
Do you know what the dimensions are for the various components involved?
It appears that they are epoxied together. Would threaded be an acceptable option?

Mike

Mike, I recall making them for the '40 PU I'd restored but didn't keep the pattern nor the dimensions. Sorry.
The dash panel (firewall) is very different as is the instrument panel when compared to the passenger cars. Thus, the passenger car rods will not work without modification.
Might be a good place to start though. I have to believe you'd be able to modify them easy enough for your truck.
Seems to me I used a set of repro rods, cut, welded, ground, bent and replated. I did have a (poor condition) set of OEM for patterns at the time.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Nick Bernier

I recently bought a set for my '40 convertible from Obsolete and Classic Auto Parts.

https://www.classicautoparts.com/

Nick

Completely different than the truck.

[41 Ford PU]

Nick: Was what you bought for a set of complete rods? From under the dash all the way to the carburetor including the joint? Or was that for a single part of the rod. I looked at the Obsolete site and they did not define the rods very well. They do have the joint.

Mike

[41 Ford PU]

Kube: I do have what was on the truck that I could use as a "template".
Or, I could lengthen the throttle rod slightly.
I have all of the necessary equipment to virtually make anything that is metal.
Currently one of my customers has me making replacement parts for 100 year old motorcycles. So, if I can reproduce those, I guess this would be pretty easy.

Mike

[Nick Bernier]

Originally Posted by 41 Ford PU

Nick: Was what you bought for a set of complete rods? From under the dash all the way to the carburetor including the joint? Or was that for a single part of the rod. I looked at the Obsolete site and they did not define the rods very well. They do have the joint.

Mike

From under the dash, yes; but not the knobs and short metal piece the rods bolt into.
Nick

[41 Ford PU]

Nick: Were they both the same length? Or did you just buy one. I also found them in the C.W.Moss catalog, but was uncertain about them. Their catalog picture shows two different lengths while Obsolete's catalog doesn't show them very well.

Considering that the issue is with the throttle rod, I can run the engine without it. I want to replace it if at all possible, even if I have to make or rebuild one. If I do either, I would get both as new and save the existing as futures.

Mike

[Nick Bernier]

Originally Posted by 41 Ford PU

Nick: Were they both the same length? Or did you just buy one. I also found them in the C.W.Moss catalog, but was uncertain about them. Their catalog picture shows two different lengths while Obsolete's catalog doesn't show them very well.

Considering that the issue is with the throttle rod, I can run the engine without it. I want to replace it if at all possible, even if I have to make or rebuild one. If I do either, I would get both as new and save the existing as futures.

Mike

I did buy both and they are different lengths.
Nick

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Nick Bernier

From under the dash, yes; but not the knobs and short metal piece the rods bolt into.
Nick

The knobs and short (integral) rods are not included with the choke and throttle rod "kit". Also, they are different for the 41 pickup vs. your 40 convertible.

[Bored&Stroked]

Given that I run multiple carb setups, I'm always cutting, splicing, TIG welding or doing something to the rods.

Throttle Rods: On a 32, no biggie as the throttle rod is part of the in-car mechanism - on other years it is its own beast.

On the outside throttle rod, depends on your induction setup (what length is needed). On the choke, same issue - you might have to bend, splice, cut weld to get the length right.

I'm currently working on a 32 roadster with a hot-flathead and a 3-carb intake. You can't just change the rod-length to align with the center carb (it will hit the rear carb). So, I'm going to have to cut/extend the actual throttle pedal so the rod goes around the rear carb.

[41 Ford PU]

Bored & Stroked: What that tells me is that I'll have to custom make the throttle rod and I might go ahead and make the choke rod at the same time. The only issue will be the carb connection. I may have to keep that and change the other end. I'll buy a couple of the joints and take it from there.

Any suggestions for an epoxy from the joint to the rod? I can always TIG them if I have to.

Mike

[Kube]

Originally Posted by 41 Ford PU

Bored & Stroked: What that tells me is that I'll have to custom make the throttle rod and I might go ahead and make the choke rod at the same time. The only issue will be the carb connection. I may have to keep that and change the other end. I'll buy a couple of the joints and take it from there.

Any suggestions for an epoxy from the joint to the rod? I can always TIG them if I have to.

Mike

JB weld works well at the joints. Or, if you have a fence crimping tool, that works even better.

[41 Ford PU]

Kube: Thanks for the info.

I'll get the joints ordered and then I can see what size diameter to get for the shafts.
I'm not sure what a "fence crimping tool" is, so it'll either be JB Weld, or TIG weld.

Mike

[Brian]

I threaded my rods and tapped the connector. That way i can position the rods orienting the writing on the knobs and use lock nuts to secure. When I r&r engines, I can easily remove the two rods, just makes the job a bit easier...