Brake improvement for Model A's

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Oldgearz

I put new cast iron drums all around with new woven linings. I put Ted's deluxe floater kit all around. I am having a hard time getting things right. Fronts want to make noise or grab. The set-up definitely works better than what I had, but is really finnicky about rod lengths and adjustments on the front. I believe the length and condition of the operating pins and the front brake actuating arms are critical to the front brakes being dialed in correctly. You will need to have a selection of pins and shims to get things right. It can try your patience. Even with new parts you can have problems, as no two seem to be alike, even if from the same vender. But I'm not giving up.

Ohhh No! Reading this only makes me sad for you in your struggles.

Therein lies a huge problem for others just like you IMHO when you speak of new parts and the struggle trying to "get things right". There are many things that hobbyists tend to overlook that are huge from my experience in restoring brakes.

The first is, ...I am going to guess about ½ of the brake shoe cores we find are either bent where the parabolic shape is incorrect, and/or the pin holes are oversized due to wear. If a brake shoe is not within specifications, then it will cause chattering or noise. Also, it will be hard for it to maintain proper alignment within the centerline of the drum, thus loss of efficiency.

Next speaking about the proper centerline, unless you have a fixture machined to be able to replace the Shoe Centering Bracket (A-2017) in the precise location, they are not going to work well. Ford Engineers did not allow the Agency mechanics to repair brake housing (backing) plates by replacing worn parts. The reason is because these mechanics could not hold the tolerances that Ford Engineers needed. So if the trained Model-A mechanics back in the day could not do it properly, why do we feel hobbyist mechanics today can do it correctly without any fixtures or precise locating methods?? Additionally, for several years now I have posted this when topics like this come up, but even the Mechanic's Handbook suggested measurements are over 5-TIMES the allowable specification variation that Ford Engineers specified. Ford Engineers allowed for there to be less that five-thousandths (0.005") variation. In other words, basically the thickness of one human hair in either direction!! Eyeballing the location and then installing rivets is NOT the correct way to having good brakes. Using a variety of pins to try to correct it is NOT the correct way either!!

Unfortunately it has become the 'norm' to choose a method that masks or compensates for worn parts or sloppy craftsmanship now. Again, I have seen it over & over how Model-A brakes stop superbly with parts that are all within specification, ...and even with stamped steel drums that are within specs. If someone adds cast-iron drums in lieu of steel drums, the benefit of many repetitious stops without pedal fade is all that is added. While I realize all of this is likely falling on deaf ears, please consider doing the restoration correctly instead of bandaids being passed-off as upgrades.


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