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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Hi guys
Workin on replacing the oil seal. I’m having difficulty getting old one out & the part looks different than what’s up on truck. Is there a cap that covers oil seal? It’s not shown in shop manual.
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
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There are a few different oil seals, which one are you talkin' about?
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Thanks- The part number is M-4676.
Is there a deflector / cap over it? If yes is it presses on or screw in. See pic to left above.
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,598
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The shop manual doesn't show a deflector, just the seal and companion flange.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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I know but maybe this rear was changed out. See pic it has a cap - deflector or something I can’t get off....
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 |
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#6 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: upstate SC
Posts: 3,006
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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How did get the plate or seal out?
Do I need the deflector if I destroy it getting it out?
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 Last edited by adileo; 10-28-2020 at 03:43 PM. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: upstate SC
Posts: 3,006
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drill two hole on opposite sides--run a large sheet metal screw in and pry out seal using the alternate holes. always remember the "edge" of the seal goes against the fluid side
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: So Cal
Posts: 9,598
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What deflector? Are you asking about the oil slinger that's behind the seal?
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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No please see pic on left. It’s in front
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
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Does the pic on left show the shield and bearing in place with the axle removed?
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DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES Last edited by 51 MERC-CT; 10-28-2020 at 04:23 PM. |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Hi no
The pic shows the view with drive shaft, companion flange & nut removed.
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#13 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Hartford, Ct
Posts: 5,898
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Quote:
It should pry off utilizing the outer seam.
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DON'T RECALL DOING SOMETHING FOR MYSELF BASED ON SOMEONE ELSE'S LIKES OR DISLIKES Last edited by 51 MERC-CT; 10-28-2020 at 04:56 PM. |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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This from shop manual:
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Thanks all! It was confusing that the replacement didn’t look like what I was seeing on the truck. What I’ve gathered is the old original seal had a metal lip. The replacement doesn’t and it’s not needed. So I can now hack at it tomorrow.
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 |
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#16 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Just remember you're messing with the pre-load on the pinion. Need to mark the nut well and be sure it gets back to the same location.
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Jerry thanks. I didn’t mark it. The book says tork 140-180.
Two questions. Since I still haven’t removed the oil seal. Should I put the nut and yoke back tork and mark? Or too late and just tork to specs?
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 |
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#18 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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I think it's to late to correct it now. For future reference, always mark a pinion nut before you remove it. The torque spec is all you have to go on now, most likely will be ok.
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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My bad. Thanks!
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Thanks Andy 1952 F1 |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NM
Posts: 2,443
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I would absolutely go with torque to specs rather than the position the nut was in 68 yrs ago when it had brand new bearings. Although you may end up backing off to get the cotter pin in.
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'52 F-1, EAB flathead |
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