I Don't Like Palnuts

[35fordtn]

Originally Posted by Pete

A fastener that is properly assembled and torqued to spec will NOT come loose.
FRICTION is what keeps it together.
There are NO Pal Nuts, Tablocks, cotter pins, jam nuts, Loctite or weld that will keep it together if it is not torqued to spec on assembly.
Torqueing is only half of it also. The thread needs to be clean and lubed with some kind of thread lube like ARP has. If you don't have ARP lube, rear end gear lube will get by. The face of the nut needs lube also.
LOCTITE WON'T WORK IN THE PRESENCE OF OIL. You need the lube more than the Loctite.

A lot of rod failures can be attributed to tightening with a torque wrench that was out of calibration.

The modern nuts that are refered to as "Chev", "Cat", etc. are called "MARSDEN" nuts.
They have slots on the back and look similar to a castellated nut but the slots are thinner.
The thing that makes them work is a relief on the inside of the face that causes the lands on the back to distort and exert clamping force when the nut is torqued.

For what it is worth, race engine rod bolts/nuts use NO locking method other than friction. Either plain nuts or plain thread 12 point bolts.

While this contradicts the fact that I have used loctite, I cannot agree more. Even ARP states it is not needed, and highly recomends their lube. I dont build many engines so my opinion should be of little concern