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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Jackson Ca.
Posts: 178
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How does everyone feel about running synthetic oil in their A's. I have been running 30wt. Diesel oil but now see people are talking about running synthetics. I don't think they come in anything but 5-20 wt.? What do you guys think?
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: In my garage
Posts: 472
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I’ve been using Walmart 10/30 Synthetic oil for 2 years now. I did have a lifter tap now it’s gone. I don’t know if it fixed it, but the A seams happier
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31 Tudor 66 Bonneville 57 Chevy pickup 27 T roadster pick up |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Coral Springs, Florida
Posts: 747
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Mobil One 10W-40 High Millage - Synthetic in all my cars including the '31 Pickup
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Germany, near Aachen
Posts: 1,315
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I use in my new A a 20W/40 synthetic oil at 1500 mls. In my 47-er Traction I drive now 10 years a 7.5W/40 synthetic at 60.000 mls. Low ash, clean piston"heads" and spark plugs.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,873
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I run synthetic in everything. even the lawn tractor.
price at this point is almost identical to reg oil and it lasts 3x as long. |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Germany, near Aachen
Posts: 1,315
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,017
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The stuff is too expensive for me. I'll keep using the stuff that was good enough for Pop & Grandpop.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Connecticut Shoreline
Posts: 2,067
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I have read that when used with older engines synthetic oil can damage gaskets and seals causing the potential for leaks.
I do use synthetic in all our modern cars. Really great stuff. Enjoy. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Germany, near Aachen
Posts: 1,315
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Rotorwrench, I see you here in the forum as a very versatile professional good technical man. See synthetic oils only so, that they burn with much less residue. The engine and combastion chambers stays cleaner.
This is the main reason for me why I use synthetic oil.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Germany, near Aachen
Posts: 1,315
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WHN, this only applies to sealing material (shaft sealing ring) before the 1970s. Thereafter, material (eg. 'Viton'), which is compatible with synthetic oils, was used.
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Beste Gruesse aus Deutschland, Werner Ford Model A, Roadster, 1928 Citroen 11 CV, 1947 Hercules W 2000, 1976; (with NSU-Wankel Rotary Engine), Canadian version |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: NH
Posts: 182
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SAE 30 Non Detergent
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'30 Coupe |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Tocumwal, NSW, Australia
Posts: 1,848
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Synthetic oil ?
I seem to have a different opinion to other users. A buddy spoke about the positive benefits of synthetic oil in his aeroplane so I tried it in mine. The oil remained clean and after quite a number of hours I realised it wasn’t scavenging the carbon. I returned to the usual detergent oil and it got very black very quickly. I continued to change frequently until normality returned. It is for this reason I never used it again. Has the composition changed? Or am I being obstinate? I have an open mind to logical criticism and positive suggestion.
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I know many things, But not everything, At times I may not remember, But there are things I do not forget. |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Takoma Park, MD
Posts: 3,025
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I use Mobil 1 Synthetic in my Model A's and my 39 Ford V8. I have been running 10w-30, but I want to change to 10W-40 as Ford recommended 40w in the summer. Maybe it doesn't make that much difference? FWIW, Ron Ehrenhofer, who is the technical guru for the Model A News for MARC, uses synthetic in his cars.
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Australia/USA/EU/Soviet Russia
Posts: 1,105
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No need for Synthetic Oil in an A but if you must I'd go for Mobil 1 15w-50 which is great for both cool and hot weather and this oil has a very high ZDDP content if that also matters to you. It's sold a Walmart for about $23 a gallon I think.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
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Use what ever will give you piece of mind when you drive.
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What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,291
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It helps to keep the turbo cool.
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: NNNNNNNNJJJJJJJJJJ
Posts: 7,873
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as I said, I run synthetic in everything and it lasts 3x as long as reg motor oil. I chg my oil every 2k miles
buying it for 3.15 a qt at walmart. for the guys that say they cant afford that, well maybe they cant afford an A. "ignore the noise around you" |
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#18 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 18,017
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Quote:
I learned a long time ago not to use synthetics in the helicopters. They would never last on the stuff. Aeroshell W100 or W100+ are the most common used. The plus has TCP as an additive for Lycoming engine cam follower well being but can not be used in engines with integral clutches or overrunning clutches since they might slip with that oil. Straight mineral is only used for break in. Automotive engines have no real comparison to aircraft engines other than they are a reciprocating piston design. |
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Temecula, CA
Posts: 4,321
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Synthetic is too expensive for me! I run 20-50 Pep Bros. or NAPA. I've run 15-40 in my diesels since '82, one ran 262,00 before I sold it, another 206,000 never any trouble. I run my '13 power stroke 7500 miles between changes, as per factory recommendation. Zinc is not important in A's, wasn't when new, isn't now because of the steel, not cast iron, cam and low valve spring pressure. Detergent is important, never run without it. Additives are not needed either, another waste of money.
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA
Posts: 3,017
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A filter is easily added.
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1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?
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