'39 pedals???

[Ziffer]

Can anyone tell me why the hot rod guys want '39 pedals so badly? What are they using them for and why are they8 times more money than say 36 or 40 pedals?

Thanks

[32Gnu]

Because 39 pedals are a good option when building an Av8...In Bishop/Tardels book they show an option to the 32 pedals using 39 pedals and a bracket... You need a set I guess?

[rotorwrench]

They are one of the better original Ford pedal set ups to fit some of the different cross member addaptations on Model A V8 conversions and 32 Ford frame conversions along with hydraulic brake conversion. Original 32 pedal set ups with K-members and F1 pick up cross members & pedals are also high on the list for this.

Kerby

[georgewarren]

Mostly used to convert 34-38 Fords to Hydraulic brakes; almost a bolt-in procedure.

['36 5W]

More specifically, the clutch linkage comes off the right side of the pedal assy., rather than the left, greatly simplifying the linkage setup and taking up less room. Only '39 had this feature.

Do a search and you will find further info. Also, contact Richard here; (EV8G) he offers a nice setup which utilizes stock pedals. The HAMB site has a lot of info. as well.

Robb

[JM 35 Sedan]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

They are such a popular item that Bob Drake is now reproducing them and his version will also accept different types of master cylinders.

[KGS]

Why not use the pedals that came with the car? Our friend
Richard Lacey at EFV8 Garage has engineered and manufactured the unit to allow you to do exactly that.
Ken

Early V8 Garage
1217 Azusa Canyon Road
West Covina, CA 91790
http://www.earlyv8garage.qpg.com/
Phone: (626)338-2282

[kwmpa]

master cylinder mounts right to it...bolts right in most early v8s and the clutch linkage comes directly off the pedal assembly unlike the 40s...its unique just to the 39s therefore makes 39s desireable

[Richard (EV8G)]

Thanks to those who mentioned my stuff. (KGS its LACY, no "E" :>))

Note that 39 pedals almost always require serious frame modifications before they can be "bolted in" and usually a hole in the floor and often relocation of the battery if using them on a model that has it under the floor. Beware that there are also 39 Mercury pedals that have a similar appearance and the same bracket BUT the pedal arms are different enough to cause trouble...

[KGS]

Hi Richard, I knew that but sometimes these fat fingers don't always hit what I want, on the keyboard. But hey, I got it right the last time...(;>)) Ken

[Richard (EV8G)]

Been that way only all my life... thanks again for the mention... R.

[flatheadA]

I used 39 clutch and brake pedals on my V8A build,I read the bible and that's what they suggested ,so thats what I used.Yes, I did have to fab. a spot to mount it(couldn't afford a K-member),but I also had other issues to address like trany mount and wishbone mount,I made an addition to my existing cross member to cover it all.So far it turned out great.I'm not done with the project (hasn't been on the road yet,this spring I hope) but I don't see any problems.As far as availability there seams to be plenty here I always see them at swapmeets(not to expensive 35 to 45 bucks ?).I think I have another on the shelf somewhere.

[flathead47]

Richard (EV8G) , Do you have a picture of the pedal setup to be installed or installed in a 35/36 ford ....... Thanks

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by flathead47

Richard (EV8G) , Do you have a picture of the pedal setup to be installed or installed in a 35/36 ford ....... Thanks

Here you go with a few pictures. I used Richard's setup on a '35 tudor I'm putting together. I considered his system a better option than buying '39 pedals and then have to modify the frame and maybe have to relocate the battery.













Here is one problem that I have. The rear left wishbone comes directly over top pf the MC fill cap. I will probably have enough room to remove the MC cap to check brake fluid level but adding fluid may be tricky. I'm thinking about doing some type of remote fill chamber that's connected to the MC with a copper tubing line. I have already drilled, tapped and capped two provisions on the MC to do this.

[flathead47]

Looks like a good setup ...... Thanks

[Richard (EV8G)]

JM: Thanks for doing my work... especially since I have not tried to figure out how to post photos... Note that the setup shown is for 1935 and earlier 1936,
which has five (5) 3-1/4" holes in each rear leg of the X. Sometime in 1936 the frame was changed to having the (3) rear-most holes (or NO such holes on
closed car frames and maybe some others?) but with a blister and a 3/8" hole
in the area where the front two large holes were on the earlier design. We have a version for either frame type, plus another version that mounts near
the pedals, and which requires drilling ONE hole and also a 3" hole in the floor for filler access. The mission was to make something that did not require any or very little modification to install.

[Mike in AZ]

hmm, if they're that cheap, you should pick up a couple or more and sell on epay for over 200 apiece...amazing they go for that much...Mike

[Richard (EV8G)]

"Here is one problem that I have. The rear left wishbone comes directly over top pf the MC fill cap. I will probably have enough room to remove the MC cap to check brake fluid level but adding fluid may be tricky. I'm thinking about doing some type of remote fill chamber that's connected to the MC with a copper tubing line. I have already drilled, tapped and capped two provisions on the MC to do this."

As per the cover sheet of the instructions, when the body and everything else is installed, the rear spring will compress, the rear end will move up closer to
the frame, and there will be more clearance between the LH rear radius rod and the top of the MC and access to the cap will be much easier. On the initial fill and bleed, this will be a bit of a PITA, but assuming your system doesn't leak, after the initial filll/bleed, it will only be necessary to "check" the fluid level to confirm that it is still full... (Low fluid is a symptom, and the only cause will be a leak in the system, which is not good!!!) The easiest way to fill it is with a small "bulb syringe" that can be purchased at a pharmacy, as they are commonly used to clear out an infant's nose, since they don't know how to blow it yet...

Commercial vehicles with 13-leaf rear spring will sit higher in the rear and thus
reduce clearance above the MC. The bracket was designed so that if a car or
truck with original shocks "goes airborne" in the rear, the travel limit on the shocks will prevent the rear from dropping enough that the MC will be impacted by the radius rod. This also necessitates that the MC be mounted lower than I would like it... especially on "lowered" vehicles (oops, this Forum is ONLY for originals...) The setup that mounts up near the pedals (and in front of the battery space - not "in" it) eliminates all of these issues, but a hole must be cut in the floor for filler access and (1) extra hole must be drilled in the frame. Like the one shown in the photos, this setup also includes the forward handbrake linkage, for which (4) additional holes must be drilled in the rear X leg lower flanges to mount a crossbar to secure the cable conduit...

[JM 35 Sedan]

Richard, thanks for coming back with some info on the LR radius rod that is close to the top of the MC on my car. I don't think it will be any real problem once the car is completely back together and the weight is back on the suspension system again. Keep up the good work Richard! I wanted to stop in and see you last October during my "Wild West Trip" but once I got out of the Red Wood Country and began heading towards Socal, all I could think about was getting back home. I'm planning to be in Lake Tahoe in 2013 for the EFV8C/A GN Meet and would like to come visit you after that meet is over. Cheers!!

ps....I think Ryan gave his blessings to let us talk about upgrading things like brakes, steering gear, and maybe a few other things on these original cars :-)