Show me your terminal box

[Paps31]

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

First, you have to get the starter to crank the engine better.

Be sure the engine is free and not tight.

The starter is independent of the terminal box. After you have verified you have a good fully charged battery, Start with first, the battery cable connections at the starter, battery and frame ground connection, all must be clean and tight.

Check for voltage drop between the ground (Positive) post of the battery and the body of the starter WHILE THE STARTER IS CRANKING THE ENGINE. This should no more than 0.1-0.2 volts. If it is a lot more, you have a bad ground connection at the frame, a bad ground cable, a poor connection of the cable to the battery post. the starter itself not getting a good ground to the flywheel housing, etc.

I like to run a separate ground cable directly from the battery to the engine itself.

Check for voltage drop between the hot (negative) post of the battery to the starter switch WHILE CRANKING THE ENGINE. This should also be no more than 0.1-0.1 volts.

If the starter still will not crank the engine like it should, you may have a bad starter switch or starter itself.

Once you get the engine to crank correctly, you can then turn your attention to the rest of the electrical system but first you have to get the engine to crank.

Once you get the engine to crank like it should, if the engine still will nlt start, get back to us.

How I would proceed,

Chris W.

Thanks. I’ll run through it again.

I HAD good connection/ground from the battery to the starter and the engine turned free, back before I had a functioning ignition system. Once I got that in, replaced the ammeter and replaced the instrument cluster-to-terminal wiring harness, the starter got sluggish.

Basically I had everything but spark. I added spark and lost the starter. Hence — one step forward, two steps back.


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