08-29-2017, 07:30 PM | #61 |
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Re: Up Grades?
MAG,
What is the maximum constant RPM these lil motors can/should be run? Regards Bill |
08-29-2017, 08:05 PM | #62 |
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Re: Up Grades?
The maximum relates directly to the condition of the engine and how often you wish to fix or replace. Mine likes 35-50 anytime. I have driven slower and faster. Never thrown a rod but I did shear an axle and a universal joint.
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08-29-2017, 08:27 PM | #63 |
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Re: Up Grades?
Bill,
Two things: One is it me or the way the picture was taken of your light bar, but it looks like it has a kink right in the middle? Maybe they did that in 31 for all I know. Also, you may consider upgrading the carb. You can go with a Model B and ported manifold (MPG WILL go down), a Tillotson should give you more oomph and not kill the MPG to much, or a Marvel carb. Mike
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08-29-2017, 10:06 PM | #64 |
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Re: Up Grades?
2200 rpm is the top of the power curve. A engine in "as new" condition can sustain it for as long as the driver can, i.e., pee stops. But it is not wise to do it. I certainly wouldn't do that with a un-balanced rebuilt engine.
Like J. Franklin says 35 to 45 mph all day, every day.
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08-29-2017, 10:12 PM | #65 | |
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Re: Up Grades?
Quote:
Your car looks great!
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08-30-2017, 04:54 AM | #66 |
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Re: Up Grades?
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Considering fender, apron, front end issues.... Looking at photos, there appears to be a problem with the frame rail or at least the horn on the right side. Area of concern indicated by arrows. Frame should be straight as shown in second photo. A string and straight edge is your friend to determine how much it's off. Don't let anyone talk you into removing the Air-Maze. I spent a lot of time playing in the Glamis Sand dunes so I know how dusty it can get there in So Cal. I would however recommend changing the filter element to a K&N E9257. It's 5-1/2" long and doesn't fatten A/F mixture. If you have problems with fuel leaking from the air horn, I would recommend a Hi Boy style air cleaner.
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08-31-2017, 11:52 AM | #67 | |
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Re: Up Grades?
Quote:
I have led and turn signals. I was driving behind a buddy of mine who does not have turn signals. Every time he put his hand out to make a turn people thought he was waving and would wave back. They had no clue what he was doing. Never mind night driving. |
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08-31-2017, 01:15 PM | #68 | |
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Re: Up Grades?
Quote:
Not so sure about your "engine pan" tho... |
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08-31-2017, 02:19 PM | #69 | |
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Re: Up Grades?
I strongly suggest you drive the car as is for a year or so before you make these or any mechanical upgrades, one up-grade you definitely do not need is a Synchronized transmission you will learn to shift and yes even down shift with more seat time, it actually fun! as far as the overdrive just install a 3:54 rear it is a great rear for local driving, bottom line get to know your car and remember this car was designed for the 20s & 30s not for the super highways of today it is a very enjoyable and trouble free car when used around town or on trips taking when taking no interstate roadways
Quote:
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08-31-2017, 03:04 PM | #70 |
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Re: Up Grades?
Good afternoon...I have had Model A's from the 60's... on and off... and I would say that the Model B Carb with a B intake manifold is worth the money. A Snyder 5.5 head is good if your engine has been rebuilt recently. When you add compression on the top, you add more strain to the rods and mains. The same goes for the Mitchell Overdrive. An older somewhat worn engine will not be happy with the 5.5 or the Mitchell. The B Carb will give you a bit of extra zip without hurting anything. A stock distributor with a modern upper plate is nice...otherwise just clean and adjust. Keep your cruising speed at or below 40. Use 10-30 detergent oil and change it every 500 miles. Lube all 31 zerk fittings every 500 miles and enjoy. Ernie
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08-31-2017, 03:40 PM | #71 |
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Re: Up Grades?
Hello Gent's,
I don't want the Mitchell trans but I will be getting the Mitchell OD in a few months. I am going to be working on her for the next few weeks. I just ordered about $850. Between Snyders and Macs, tons of small parts, along with a few bigger ones. Right now I'm trying to work loose the right rear hub off. I got the left rear off OK without a puller, so I'll try a little longer before I have to buy one. The only major work will be the Clutch, pressure plate and bearing, motor mounts along with the front spring. While I have the motor out for the clutch, I'll doll it up also. As far as the Ignition, I went with a modern plate, points and condensor. Regards Bill Last edited by BillCNC; 08-31-2017 at 04:59 PM. |
08-31-2017, 03:49 PM | #72 |
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Re: Up Grades?
See my info. If you change rear gear go with 3:27 and add 5.9 or 6.0 head , that will get you the most bang for your bucks. Have fun modelAtony tony white Lafayette, LA
Last edited by modelAtony; 08-31-2017 at 03:50 PM. Reason: forgot the # 1 thing Mitchell overdrive |
08-31-2017, 04:57 PM | #73 |
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Re: Up Grades?
bilwil
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08-31-2017, 04:59 PM | #74 |
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Re: Up Grades?
billwill!
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08-31-2017, 06:30 PM | #75 |
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Re: Up Grades?
Hi Bill, You sure have a very nice looking car. The interior looks really looks nice too. Give that baby another wax job when it cools down some and take the family for a ride to the ice cream stand and have fun driving it around.
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08-31-2017, 11:51 PM | #76 | |
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Re: Up Grades?
Quote:
Maybelline came without engine pans - What you see in pix is cardboard laying on the floor. She's a proper lady now, replete and wearing shiny new ones.
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09-01-2017, 12:31 AM | #77 | |
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Re: Up Grades?
Quote:
If you got the tub off without a puller if was probably too loose. The torque on the rear axle nut should be 100 to 200 ft-lbs depending on who you are talking to. I tend to go with the higher figure. Check the archives. You can rent a puller from: http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...ls_forsale.htm Sometimes local clubs have them to loan. Do you have hydraulic brakes? Charlie Stephens |
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