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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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A quick question. I'm reading back pages, learning as much as I can. Today I got one complete valve/guide assembly out, so I know how to do the others. This seems like a good engine, but crusty as you know what.
So, the lifter? Is it supposed to just pull up out of it's hole? Circlip or anything holding it? Still too dirty in there to see well. Tried searching, every relevant post mentions valve/guide/spring, etc., but not the lifter. Thanks!! |
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#2 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Lifter should come right out, there are no retainers.
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 1,811
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"should" lift right out. Only thing holding in its' hole is the valve. Can your turn the engine (and cam) over enough to move the lifter up, or is it too crusty?
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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Thanks a lot, guys! I can turn the engine, but valves are real sticky. I'll pull one out first thing tomorrow.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gloucester VA
Posts: 1,042
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Nope. Not always that easy. I've had to beat the lifters up with a 1/4" brass rod beside the cam lobe. They get crudded up on the bottom edge too.
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#6 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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I only got 15 more to do! That brass rod deal is exactly the kind of thing I'd expect. Still beats playing golf.
I'm starting to think maybe this engine has never been apart from new. Standard bore, main problem is it's been dormant for years. 1950, the bottom layer of all this crud is the same age as me. |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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If you reinstall adjustable lifters don't forget to drill the lifter bores.
it's been discussed on Fordbarn many times. Just do a search. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 356
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spray it with carb cleaner and work it up and down.it will disolve the varnish/sludge and should come out unless it rusty .
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,869
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Van Pelt has a V8 Lifter removal tool that makes any valve project easier.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/f...ls_forsale.htm After compressing the valve sping you can better remove the circlip which is in a groove at the bottom of the valve guide. Looks like a horseshoe with a tab on it. Look at Van Pelts online catalog at the valve sets he sells. You will see the clips at the top center of the photo. You can also use the tool to apply upward pressure on the valve guide. You do not have to remove the valve to do this. If it's crusty soak it overnight with liquid wrench as suggested. |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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Going pretty well. I got one whole side out today, lifters and all.
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Marana Arizona
Posts: 1,869
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Great, keep plugging away. Enjoy the adventure.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Save those lifters. They don't take up much storage apace.
In time, they will be valuable. |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NM
Posts: 2,443
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If you keep them in order so you know which lobe they go on...
__________________
'52 F-1, EAB flathead |
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 1,052
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Hi leon, likely not, check across the bottoms with a "true" straight-edge, if there is no longer a "crown/radius" on the bottoms (higher in the center than the sides) they are done in this lifetime??
From a business standpoint and regardless whether the "crown's" are still present or not, we could never reuse old lifters no matter what the customer would like, way too risky for us to be able to stand behind the build!! It may also be time to consider stepping up to some bronze-lined guides?? Thanks, Gary in N.Y. P.S. If you decide to go "new", make certain to use ONLY the original "Johnson" tappets. Avoid any listed as "lightweight" replacements, Johnson "style" lifters, etc, etc. Use ONLY the original Johnson's, they are still available.
__________________
http://www.stromberg-bulletin.com/me...berg-equipped/ |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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GOSFAST: Thank you for that "uplifting" info. I learned something.
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 5,906
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Original lifters can also be resurface/reground/crowned again - if they are not too worn. There is nothing wrong with original lifters if you have a rebuilder who knows how to do the valve work as Henry originally did (adjusting valve lengths to set the valve lash). With that said, many rebuilders just replace them with 'adjustables' - as it is the easy route to go and if you have a good supplier, then they can work just fine. You can also resurface original Johnsons - just like you can resurface original lifters.
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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Very interesting, and I'm paying attention.
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 768
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I had one guide which was broken in two crosswise. Happened a long ways back because the two sections were a little hammered where they fit together. Was this common? My lifters are the adjustable type. Can't figure out when engine was built, when did this start?
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