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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 7
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What holds the choke tube inlet and outlet tubes into the manifold for the 4 barrel teapot carb? My intake part # ECZ9425A has threaded hole where the elbows go in and the elbows are not threaded.
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Detroit suburb, MI
Posts: 3,801
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There is a tube that goes across inside the bottom of the intake manifold (exhaust crossover). Then the brass elbows press into that tube. The manifold was threaded by someone along the line. You can't just put the brass elbows into the intake without the tube, or the exhaust gasses will go into the choke and destroy it. The heat tubes are available if you don't have on in the manifold now.
Sal |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Abq, NM
Posts: 3,789
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Part #9890, stainless steel, '56 & '57, 7.62" long.
If the now threaded holes are too large for the heat tube to fit inside of without leaking... you may want to plug the threaded holes and go with an electric (or manual) choke cover. Sorry, I don't have the diameter of the tube or original size of the holes. . Last edited by dmsfrr; 03-28-2017 at 02:48 PM. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Granite City, Illinois
Posts: 3,008
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Well I don't know about the 4-bbl manifolds (guess I'm the only one left around here that still runs that old Ford EBU 2-bbl carb with the load-o-matic distributor). Anyway, on the '56 2-bbl manifold, if you turn the manifold upside down you would see the flared end of the copper tube recessed in the bore in the bottom of the manifold. That tube passes all the way thru the hollow heat riser passage and extends thru the top. It was a one piece tube, no fittings. The top of the tube connected directly to the bottom of the choke housing. Apparently, the tube is installed by pressing it thru from the bottom. Once the flared end at the bottom is all the way down, you turn it over and slide the cloth insulating jacket down over the tube and put the choke connector fitting on top. It was required to bend the copper tube over a little bit to get it to mate with the bottom of the choke housing, but that was the last thing that was needed to complete the installation.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 1,594
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If It was mine , I would plug the holes and put an electric. choke on it, and never look back. If you want it to be 100% original, that is a different matter. my .02
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 2,617
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: oroville calif
Posts: 892
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go with an electric choke, wire the choke wire to the ignition so that wire is powered as long as the ignition switch is on
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Black Hills, SD
Posts: 577
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The Holley style electric chokes seem really fast, too fast. In the 70s, Ford hooked them to the S terminal from the alternator. This was less than battery voltage and didn't start to open until the engine was running, about 8-9 volts IIRC.
For what ever that is worth. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Palmer, Alaska
Posts: 1,594
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willowbilly is correct. That is the best way wire the choke, that way if for some reason the eng. does not start right away , and the key is on the choke coil does not heat up. if the coil heats up before the eng. is running, you have defeated your reason for having a choke, because it will open to soon.
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#10 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 7
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Thanks for all your help. I will probably plug the holes and convert to electric choke.
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