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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: alto, tx
Posts: 155
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I am trying to remove the rear hubs on my 47. I built a puller with a 1 1/4 inch pushing bolt. I have heated the hub and hit it with an 8 lb. hammer and tightened the bolt with a 36" pipe wrench with a 3' cheater and still nothing. Has anyone ever cut one off? I am thinking about taking an air cutoff tool and cutting along the key way. Anyone ever done this?
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 9,239
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Be patient.
Are you pulling on the groove around the centre of the hub? If not, that's where you must pull. Make sure you are not damaging the thread on the axle end. Just leaving it overnight or for an hour or so will sometimes do the trick. They can take one hell of a pull to get them off. A sound whack on the end of the puller bolt with a decent heavy hammer can also help. Try and use skill and finesse, though, trying to knock seven bells out of it will only cause damage to the axle end. Mart. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Shell Knob Missouri
Posts: 152
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no stop. there is a puller that goes on the hub bolts with a screw that pushes on the axle. Some one will come on with all the poop.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kerrville, Tx
Posts: 2,917
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I wish you were closer. There was a guy selling cheap but good pullers a while back. I bought one and it has worked for me. I will see if I can run down a contact.
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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You must use the KR WILSON style hub puller or one like it that is being reproduced today. Otherwise you can end up in a "world of hurt" with a damaged axle and drum.
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#6 | |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Quote:
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
Posts: 11,184
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Quote:
Get one of the KR Wilson-types that pulls on the center, that was put there just for that reason! DD DAMN......19Fordy is squeekin'-quick today! |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kerrville, Tx
Posts: 2,917
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I found an offer on the type I have. #181935604462 ebay
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#9 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, NJ
Posts: 5,230
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Pulling from the studs is risky because of Ford's large bolt circle. You can bend the hub and drum sometimes without removing the thing.
Plomb and Snap on, the 2 main professional tool suppliers in the Flathead era, both supplied the hub stud type pullers...and both equipped them with special extra arms to allow them to pull from the central hub grooves on Fords. |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Black Hills, SD
Posts: 577
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Not as good as a factory one, but one I made that's worked every time I've used it.
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 317
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i have a brand new one like Andy mentioned, for sale never been used, email me if you are interested
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: alto, tx
Posts: 155
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The drums are already off. Did you cut the hubs off as I described? Seems as if they should come pretty easy that way.
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: UXBRIDGE, MA.
Posts: 316
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The way I did it was remove the cotter pin and loosen the nut a few turns and drive it around a tight circle in drive way and it would pop and then jack it up and remove nut and hub. Worked for me.
__________________
BOSSY |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,211
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The hub puller I bought from Mitchell Mfg works great.
__________________
Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 642
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Robert Dick, Did you sell the 36 Transmission cover? Can not find a phone # for you. I am in ma.and bought a transmission fron you a while ago, [email protected]
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Alabama
Posts: 3,455
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You're car don't have safety hubs does it??
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: alto, tx
Posts: 155
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What are safety hubs? I bought a puller that is a reproduction of the Wilson puller, but I doubt it will have the capacity of the crude one I built. I will try to post a picture later today when my camera charges up.
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: alto, tx
Posts: 155
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Did not know Mitchell made one. Can you post a picture?
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#19 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 12,129
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Safety hubs were devices that were used to retain the wheels on a pre-'49 Ford rear end in the event of a broken axle. They consisted of an aluminum casting that slipped over the inner hub from the inside. Then, a steel ring was welded on to the inner edge of the inner hub to retain the casting on the hub. The casting had two threaded holes that accepted a couple of studs about 3 inches long. To install them, you removed two of the bolts holding the backing plate on and put the studs (that had been screwed into the aluminum casting) through these holes. Nuts and lock washers were screwed onto the studs to retain the whole thing. You can usually tell if you have safety hubs by checking to see if there are two studs protruding from the back if the axle flange. I had a set of these on a drag car I had in the '60's.
After all of this, I doubt this is the problem, because the hubs would have "popped loose", but would just not be able to be removed. Last edited by tubman; 01-28-2016 at 10:50 AM. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Coral Springs FL
Posts: 11,916
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Here's the info. on the safety hubs Ken mentioned.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ht=safety+hubs |
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