Model A Door hinge removal

[JohnB15632]

On my rust buck model A, I am trying to remove the hinges from the body. The hinge screws are rusted shut. I have stripped the heads of two screws trying to remove with and impact drill. No movement. I tried to drill one out again, no movement.

Suggestions?

[katy]

Have you tried this type of impact driver? They usually work pretty good on rusted fasteners.

[31Tudor]

I think at this point you are going to have to just drill them completely out. Expand the drill bit size until you can get the head off, then continue to drill the shaft part still in the threads, trying to not get into the threads. After drilling the largest hole you can without getting into the threads, with a small punch you might be able to peal the remaining part of the screw out and save the threads.

Prior to stripping the heads, if you have access to "heat" you can heat the screws up and then soak them with penetrating oil, try it, and repeat.

[andyfresno]

I got mine out by heating them up until they were just turning red, then squirting them with penetrating oil.

Yes, it wrecks the paint and there can be a fire when you spray, so be careful

[andyfresno]

yep - -I agree - - didn't know water would work - -

[Big hammer]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Valve lapping compound on driver tips, it increases friction keeping tip from slipping :-)

[burner31]

Count your blessings, look what I have in store for me this winter.
I'm going to do my best to save both hinges.

[Mitch//pa]

Keith thats not bad... cut the side weld and drill / dremell out the plug welds

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by burner31

Count your blessings, look what I have in store for me this winter.
I'm going to do my best to save both hinges.

Someone did that to the door latches on my 28 Phaeton, so I'm in for some fun too. I'll use my Dremel and cutoff wheel. I have a pair of NOS latches, but still hope to save all parts.

[Brentwood Bob]

Looks like the bracket for the dash is also fractured in keith's picture with the completely welded hinge.

[burner31]

My plan exactly Tom.
I'm kinda looking forward to the winter, have some good projects planned.
This being one of them.

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

Looks like the bracket for the dash is also fractured in keith's picture with the completely welded hinge.

Hadn't noticed that, now I'm going to have to take a look.

[JohnB15632]

If I do not have an oxy/acc torch available, can I use a propane torch?

[Dave O]

Just took my doors off yesterday. Didn't have a torch available so I took a small, sharp cold chisel and carefully but forcefully hit on each side of the screw slot in counterclockwise direction (obviously!) until I got some screw rotation. Frequent checks with a screw driver to see if I could back out the screw by hand. If I got any movement I found tightening the screw and then unscrewing it helped. That and a lot of penetrant. Eventually got them all out. I hope the suppliers sell replacement screws!

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by burner31

Count your blessings, look what I have in store for me this winter.
I'm going to do my best to save both hinges.

After using the Dremel, like Mitch mentioned, I'd use a thin sharp chisel to separate any weld that went in beyond the metal door edge, so you won't be grinding out metal you want to save.

[tbirdtbird]

This is what you really want:

http://www.wivco.com/shake_n_break.htm
be sure to set your air pressure at 30 psi, no more.

You need an air hammer to use this but they are not expensive.
It is the vibration that really loosens the rust.

There are also youtubes of how to use it, as simple as it is.

never let rusted screws intimidate you again....

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

This is what you really want:

http://www.wivco.com/shake_n_break.htm
be sure to set your air pressure at 30 psi, no more.

You need an air hammer to use this but they are not expensive.
It is the vibration that really loosens the rust.

There are also youtubes of how to use it, as simple as it is.

never let rusted screws intimidate you again....

i have a tool like that for frozen brake bleeders on calipers and wheel cylinders.. it works everytime no heat needed...

[Randy in ca]

A thread ran on the HAMB for about 10 years, started by a guy who home-built a tool like the one referred to above. There was never any mention of them being commercially available, even in the most recent posts, but only how well they worked for anybody who made one. Looks like Wivco recognized a good idea when they saw it!!

[burner31]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

This is what you really want:

http://www.wivco.com/shake_n_break.htm
be sure to set your air pressure at 30 psi, no more.

You need an air hammer to use this but they are not expensive.
It is the vibration that really loosens the rust.

There are also youtubes of how to use it, as simple as it is.

never let rusted screws intimidate you again....

I have the air hammer, air chisel and all the other fixin's, three different types of welders and the gumption to get it done, kinda looking forward to it.

TOOLS are toys for men, my playground has a floor jack, my sandbox is full of blast media, my swing set can pull motors...haven't quite figured out the slide just yet.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i have a tool like that for frozen brake bleeders on calipers and wheel cylinders.. it works everytime no heat needed...

I'll have to try that on my 1928 Phaeton windshield posts.
So far I haven't been able to get any of the 4 large screws loose.