8ba, getting the cam out

[cas3]

i have a running 8ba and i would like to switch to the crab type distributor, so that means switch the cam, can you get it out by just holding the valves open with some wooden wedges? thanks

[Ralph Moore]

I think you will have to pull the intake, and valves, then pull the lifters. It's the only way to do it without having problems.

[skidmarks]

do you have to switch to the early timing gears when putting a early cam in a 8BA block ? I think the pitch changes the direction of the thrust

[Tony, NY]

Do you have adjustable lifters? Wouldn't the valves have to be adjusted to the new cam?

[oldford2]

If you change the cam to earlier you will also have to change to early timing gears and cover. No big deal there. I believe either Walt Dupont or OlRon posted how to hold the valves up to remove the cam. Maybe they will chime in.
John

[Ol' Ron]

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Just why do you have to change the gears?? Just who started that rumer? Why? There isn't any reason to do this. I don't understand the reasoning behind it. Just make sure the cam back lash is correct.
Boy, once something like this gets started , you can't put a end to it.
OK, you say it will hurt the distributor. HOW???

[JSeery]

What are you responding to Ron, I'm not seeing what your seeing.

[Ol' Ron]

Well it seem that someone started a rumor r that you have to chang the cam and crank gears when switching fron early to oate cams, like the factory did. I've never cossidered this a viable necessity. I think either set ill work just fine with any cam

[JSeery]

Never thought about that, good input! Now how about changing the cam without removing the valves, just how is that accomplished?

[Ol' Ron]

I supose it could be done, But.

[JSeery]

That is my thought, why? Seems like a lot more trouble than it would be worth and you still have to end up setting (or at least checking) valve clearance.

[Binx]

A couple years ago someone here on the barn posted pics of how they did it. He made up a bunch of plywood horseshoe spacers to put under the valve heads then wired the adjustable lifters to the springs to hold them up.

Lonnie

[Tinker]

Ya I heard that'll work too. Never tried that but had a discussion with a local about doing it. Old solid lifters being a bit tougher.

[Tinker]

As far as timing gears. Id go with what ol Ron says.

[Ol' Ron]

Ihe trouble here is just going back wards. The old dist. isn't as good as a chebby unit.

[Mike51Merc]

I treat a cam and lifters as a matched set. Change one, change both.

[Walt Dupont--Me.]

I've changed cam without removing valves. of course you must have adjustable lifters in your engine. Remove heads, pry valves wide open with a pickle fork under the valve stem, install a snap cloth pin under the valve head, roll engine over ( I hope it's not still in the car) lifters will slide up to the valve stem, remove cam, reverse instrustions. I like to use 59ab gears so the cam will thrust back against the block. Walt

[my4dv8]

The 8ba cam gear thrusts toward the front cover . Surely if you change the cam to an early one with the late timing gear there is a possibility of the late gear thrusting forward on the crab distributor instead of the front cover as designed.
I don't think it's viable option to change cams with the motor upright in the car , as Walt said if it's out of the car you could do it, maybe.

[Ol' Ron]

Even with the thrust forward, there is a thrust surface on the early cover and with only .006-.010" cam back lash, what difference does it make?? It surly doesn't affect the crab distributor. The direction of thrust is immaterial in this instance. Now with all this said. every engine I've ever build, always used the early cam/crank gears. I just don't like the alum timing covers and when I run a late distributor I use a cast iron cover. I do this from experience, no other reason. OH yea. The last cam I checked for bacl lash had .022". Something to think about.

[chap52]

Like Walt said...clothes pins on the valve stems above he block deck after prying the valves up.