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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Don't think this is a car issue but it's a 1939 Deluxe.
I put in a new 6 volt solenoid. If I just snug the nut on battery side of solenoid (re-connect the battery) there is no issue and car will start fine. I tighten the nut on the battery side nut (real tight - reconnect the battery) it some how will completes the circuit and car will crank. Why would tightening the nut on battery side of solenoid cause a complete circuit? ![]() BTW this happened with two new solinoids......If I put the old one back in and tighten there is no issue and it works as designed |
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#2 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florence Ma.
Posts: 2,404
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Quote:
How tight is REAL tight ? Sorry for asking >> If the old one works fine Y are you changing it ?? My answer is by making it REAL tight you are pulling or twisting the stud till it makes contact on the inside of the solenoid completing the circuit . |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Wheaton, IL near Chicago
Posts: 861
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I'm guessing as you are pulling it tight you are shifting the internals of the solenoid and completing the circuit.
Are you trying to tighten it like its a lug nut or something? 100 ft lbs? Electrical components need to be clean and tight, but there is a point of overdoing it. They are small and can be delicate, treat them appropriately. |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Ok I'm stronger than I think
it has a lock washer and I wanted it tight. To me I wasn't over doing it but it must be more delicate than I thoughtTo answer the other question I put new starter and wanted to do solinoid same time |
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Florence Ma.
Posts: 2,404
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To answer the other question I put new starter and wanted to do solinoid same time[/QUOTE]
Excellent answer . |
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Oakville Ontario
Posts: 586
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Interesting I learn more from this site than I can recall from the years spent in college.
Thank you all |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Shell Knob Missouri
Posts: 152
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I've never ben in a college but I think I'd be at about a b+ level in flatheads it I were to take a test for flatheads. If I were in a class with all old Ron's and JWL's I might be on a c- level. HMMM could be a D.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 1,579
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If you want to insure a tight connection without affecting the stud's position, sandwich the cable connector between two nuts. Just a thought.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: NM
Posts: 2,443
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Exactly. Usually solenoids have a nut to hold the stud in place, and a second nut to tighten the lug against that nut. I use flat washers, no lock washers, if needed.
__________________
'52 F-1, EAB flathead |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: now Kuna, Idaho
Posts: 3,833
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Put the lock washer on first and then the cable. Hold the cable as you tighten so it doesn't allow the stud to twist. This is especially helpful when you go to remove the cable. Just hold the cable and the nut comes right off. Otherwise the lock washer bites into the nut and the cable, turning the cable with the nut; sometimes turning the whole stud. This works especially well on generator terminals and other small wiring studs.
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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I never removed the base nut
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#13 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 1,772
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Quote:
When I first Installed it I did not hold based nut. I just did that as you suggested and I got another half turn, connected battery and car remained silent. I feel much more comfortable with its tightness now ") JS my hat is once again off to you.
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,157
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A lot of replacement electrical components are very cheaply made in China and are only marginally operational with very thin insulation and electrical foil that has to be handled with kid gloves to work??? It is a shame.
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Oro Valley, AZ
Posts: 1,250
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I agree, what I learn here and what a can learn here by asking questions is amazing.
Dick. |
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#17 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wichita KS
Posts: 16,132
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I agree about the lightweight built electrical parts, but you still should not twist the connections on them without a way to keep the studs from turning. This includes generators (alternators), starters, etc.
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Glens Falls NY
Posts: 1,403
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Lock washer hardware note: For electrical connections, avoid use of "split" lock washers as they require relatively more force to compress and lock in-place. Instead, use an INTERNAL serrated lock washer - looks like a round flat washer with small teeth around inside hole - their small teeth require less compression force to "bite" on the connection.
Last edited by Drbrown; 04-19-2015 at 11:00 PM. |
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