Les Andrews way of timing...

[tbirdtbird]

Purdy, it seems to me that once you have proper points gap and timing, assuming that it indeed is correct, that you should never again have to fiddle with the timing. Just re-gap the points as needed once the points block wears. Wanna comment on this?

Ppl on here are telling how they time and re-time and fiddle and play endlessly

[Tom Cavallaro]

Tom, points got polished. The light goes to ground on the frame and the other on the driver side of coil. Light still stays on but gets brighter when the points open. I then went to the point arm again and the light goes out till the points open. Car starts and runs great, I just can't seem to find this weak ground you speak of.
Tom

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Tom Cavallaro

Tom, points got polished. The light goes to ground on the frame and the other on the driver side of coil. Light still stays on but gets brighter when the points open. I then went to the point arm again and the light goes out till the points open. Car starts and runs great, I just can't seem to find this weak ground you speak of.
Tom

The original armored cable offered at least 3 good grounds, but the small repro cable may not offer any ground, so be sure the base of the distributor and the pocket in the head are clean and rust free. I like to smear some antiseize in the pocket, so the distributor doesn't rust in place. If in doubt about a good distributor ground, just run a wire from the condenser ground strap screw to a good engine ground.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

Purdy, it seems to me that once you have proper points gap and timing, assuming that it indeed is correct, that you should never again have to fiddle with the timing. Just re-gap the points as needed once the points block wears. Wanna comment on this?

Ppl on here are telling how they time and re-time and fiddle and play endlessly

Dave, that is exactly my point !!! Unless the points cam gets moved, the distributor will remain in time. Even if the upper plate and cam must be removed for whatever reason, where the rotor tip points can be marked and returned to the exact same place with no clockwise backlash and the distributor will still be in time. The points can be set at any time without moving where the points cam is set. All that is necessary to adjust the points is to turn the engine untill the rubbing block on the points is on high cam of the points cam and make the gap adjustment.

The model A is probably the most simple engine ever to set the timing on . There is no need for a timing light or any light for that matter. Degrees and such is nothing that the common man need be concerned with on the model A distributor, the timing pin takes care of that. When I need to reset the timing ,I set the points where I want them first . I then turn the engine untill the timing pin drops in place and adjust the distributor cam so that the trailing edge of the rotor tip points at the number one contact in the distributor cap and make real sure that there is no clockwise rotation in the distributor shaft after I tighten the cam screw. Nothing could be simplier. I could teach my 11 year old grand daughter how to set the timing on a model A easier than . I already know what I want the points set on to begin with , as I detailed in my previous post. I don't have any need to go through the thing with the spark lever. To make it simple for those that think that the retarded spark deal is necessary, they could set the distributor timing as I have explained, then retard the spark and see if the points were just ready to open. If the points were not ready to open, they could simply open or close the points adjustment to suit them without even touching the cam screw. Its a no brainer and couldn't be easier .There is no excuse for bad timing on the model A .

The only time that a properly timed distributor will get out of time is if the points cam is moved and the engine is turned . Its really as simple as that . The only reason that I keep repeating timing and brake setup explainations is to help people that really don't understand these things. Timing and brake setup is the two main things that people have problems with and don't understand. I have nothing to proove or nothing to gain. There is no need in making simple proceedures too high tech and difficult for the common man. I can't take it with me so my info is free .

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Tom Cavallaro

Tom, points got polished. The light goes to ground on the frame and the other on the driver side of coil. Light still stays on but gets brighter when the points open. I then went to the point arm again and the light goes out till the points open. Car starts and runs great, I just can't seem to find this weak ground you speak of.
Tom

these results are indicative if your checking the primary distributor feed... are you sure that it is the proper side of the coil? did you try doing the test on the other pole. its usually the red wire pass side

[OL JENNY]

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Purdy, thank you for your explanation. Even for those of us who have been driving for awhile, your explanation brings home a simple and efficient way to not only time our Model A's, but an easier way of understanding. I also want to commend you for consistently taking your time to repeatedly explain issues WITHOUT

[OL JENNY]

WHOOPS---I hit the wrong key
continuing, I want to commend Purdy for repeatedly explaining issues WITHOUT ever making anyone feel stupid. Purdy and others on this forum are special with being patient and courteous. Thanks

[Purdy Swoft]

Thanks Jenny, My main intent was to explain how simple the timing process can be . A lot of people really do have problems with this procedure. Sometimes I get carried away and make careless statements when I am in a bad mood. I went back and edited a few comments out of my posts on this thread . I really didn't mean to make anybody feel stupid . Sorry if my comments offended anyone.

Thanks again, your kind words made me rethink some of my brash words.

[tbirdtbird]

its all good, man