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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 510
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What holds this in place and how is it removed?
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gwynn's Island Va
Posts: 1,638
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The shaft is held on by a pin. Grind off the head and knock it out. Then you can drive the shaft out.
Wick |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 510
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 203
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Kaukauna, Wisconsin
Posts: 396
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While it is doubtful that you could drive the shaft out through the inspection hole, it may be possible to fabricate a slide hammer to attach to the shaft on the outer end and get it out that way. I have not tried this method, but I would try this before disassembling the bell housing from the flywheel housing. You can always do that as a last resort. Good luck. Don/WI
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,428
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Paul in CT |
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Gwynn's Island Va
Posts: 1,638
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Dmax ,I was thinking the bellhousing was out of the car when I responded.
Im just up the road from you in Mathews,ive got plenty of spare Bellhousings (7-10) if you ever need one. Wick |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tucson, Arizona
Posts: 374
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Check the diameter of the new one if it is repro before pounding it in the hole; I had to turn several thou off of the last one I installed because it was oversized.
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 691
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While on the subject of break/clutch shaft, my peddles are real sloppy. Could I get away with just replacing the bushings rather than taking out the shaft?
Thanks, Pete |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 6,586
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Take the pedals off and re-bush them, you can then check the shaft for wear.
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#11 |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin
Posts: 408
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Some additional info about the pedels, not the shaft. Control key held down and the + key to enlarge print.
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Williamsburg, VA
Posts: 510
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Quote:
I talked to Steve at Bert's and he said that I should be able to grind off the head of the pin and pull the shaft out with a vice-grips. He said he has done several 'on the car replacements' this way. I ordered the shaft and bushings. I am going to press in new busings and check how the pedals fit on the existing shaft. If they are still sloppy, time to tackle replacing the shaft. |
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#13 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Marysville, WA.
Posts: 1
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Message is for Peter J. of Olympia, Wa.: Hi Peter, I saw your picture of the yellow coupe. I have a coupe the same color but I don't know what the name of that color is. I was told it was Bronson Yellow. I got some touch up paint of Bronson Yellow and it isn't even close. Please let me know. David in Marysville, Wa. (Vernaman)
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 691
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Vern in Marysville, the color is called sunshine yellow. I found a match with my wife's acrilic paint set. It's not a Model A color.
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#15 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Farmington, Utah
Posts: 77
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I tried to replace the clutch/brake shaft by grinding off the head of the pin and trying to drive the pin through to the inside of the bell housing. The pin would not budge. I called around and found that only early (1928ish) bell housings will allow this. The newer bell housings use a tapered pin that MUST be driven out from the inside of the bell housing, so the bell housing must be off the vehicle and on the work bench. If you can accomplish this any other way please let me know.
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