Going for a dip 1942 Ford Coupe

[Ford1942Deluxe]

Tom and I did see that the floater mechanism is not going to fit through the hole. Once we get back to working on the fuel tank I'll be sure to share some pictures on what we end up doing.

Thanks!

[Ford1942Deluxe]

Engine tear down...

[Ford1942Deluxe]

It's been a while since I last posted. Kind of jumping around, here's some pictures of the horns I just rebuilt.

[Ford1942Deluxe]

...

[Zeke3]

The horns look great!

[Ford1942Deluxe]

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Thank you, fun stuff.

[flatford8]

It’s gonna be a great looking car!……..Mark

[Conrad Rossi]

Ford1942Deluxe. Very nice job. Thanks for sharing the pictures as they provide useful reference material and is helping me with my early ‘46 project.

[OldGold360]

Originally Posted by Kube

I can't agree with you more. I'd seen the acid migrate as long as five years after paint. I NEVER dip any sheet metal that is folded. NEVER.

I’ve worked on at least a dozen vehicles (probably closer to two dozen) that have been dipped. Never had any issue. I’m sure it all depends on who performs the work and how thorough they are.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by tetanus

My buddy had a car dipped and he took a propane torch and heated the seams until it all bubbled out, and it did bubble out!

Your friend was (is) a wise man. I'd seen too many instances where, even years later, the acid would seep out and damage otherwise a beautiful finish.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by Ford1942Deluxe

...

I can't quite decide so please, you tell me... are you attempting a concourse restoration or simply refinishing / refurbishing.

I certainly appreciate the fact you are going to such great lengths.

[Ford1942Deluxe]

Simply refinishing/refurbishing.
Thank you.

[Bored&Stroked]

Very nice work! Nice to see the time/effort being applied to make it as nice as possible.

[Ford1942Deluxe]

Here are some additional pictures on the engine. Its been tested and installed on the chassis.

[Ford1942Deluxe]

Cont...

[Ford1942Deluxe]

Distributer rebuilt and painted.

[Ol' Ron]

As a clastic restoration, I think the car is great, unfortunately it won't make a great "street machine" Tod do that it doesnt need Hp just yjr saftu and reliability of a modern car. Something that can go across country at hyway speed , get Good gas mileage. This needs an engine "Flathead " that can get 25MPH and 100K miles between rebuilds, A suspension system for safty and quality of ride. and a modern brake system. Sounds expensive, but if you thing about it Junk yards are full of it.. You don't need power st 5or6K, just alittle more torque at 3. You have to build it so it can be fixed anywhere it brakes down by the nearest dealer
omething to think about when you put the old trans ans rear enginit, Genorator?? where can you get one on the road. Fuel pump?? most cars dont have an engine friven fuell pump or Fan. you'd be supprised what available for just a few bucks Bought a Jeed GC spicer 44 3.7 posi rear and disk brakes for 249 Bucks, a T-170 trans for 3 00. OOOOOOh to be young again.
Gramps

[Bored&Stroked]

Something to note: You had the engine up on a chain hoist with the front mounting point the generator stud . . . that is super dangerous in that I've seen these intake manifold castings crack/break. Not only would it probably ruin the engine (or crankshaft at the least) but think about it falling on your feet (or other body parts) if it ever let go.

You're much better off using two longer Grade 5+ 3/8 NC bolts into two front intake manifold locations.

Not trying to pee on your shoes, just hate to see a terrible accident happen to anybody else.

Nice work on the engine, chassis, etc.. You're doing an exceptional job on all fronts.

[Ford1942Deluxe]

Feedback is welcome, when someone's knowledge and experience can help others that's what this is all about.

Thank you.

[fortyonerag]

Loving this tread. Thanks for sharing!!