Time for a head gasket...

[Trapdoor2]

Massive amounts of oily steam from the exhaust...suddenly running poorly.

Looks like I get my first Model A head gasket lesson!

It isn't leaking externally, no water in the oil. She just started pumping steam and I'm getting a bunch of carbon/water on the floor out of the exhaust (I think that's the worst stuff I've ever had to clean off the floor...carbon black is almost as bad as Prussian Blue...).

I guess I'll make up a list of parts and get an order going. I've searched the forum for tips, techniques, gasket recommendations (509C w/copper spray). Watched a couple of videos. Last time I installed a head gasket was when I was 13...on a 289 Chevy.

Of course, this will be a great time to heli-coil those distributor locking screw threads. Probably get a new set of head studs and nuts. I have a basic gasket set (no head gasket). Might as well replace the old radiator hoses while I'm at it.

[Canton_Model_A's]

Trapdoor2, this video from Paul Shinn should be of help to you.

https://youtu.be/Mh3VZ6iQSGU?si=s5Iw0IVZ_AWkmjw5

[gdmn852]

Hello, at least you won’t have to reset valves on a Model A , drain water. , remove hose , maybe the water pump, some times the head and block have gained a great affection to each other, I have made an adapter to fit the spark plug and pressurized the head to release from block , if you have problems with that. Good luck.

[Canton_Model_A's]

Follow what Paul does in his video, take out the spark plugs, loosen the head nuts, shove some nylon rope (Lowes/Home Depot) into the front and rear spark plug hole till you can shove no more, bump over the starter gently and the head should pop up. The video shows Paul doing just that.

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by Canton_Model_A's

Trapdoor2, this video from Paul Shinn should be of help to you.

https://youtu.be/Mh3VZ6iQSGU?si=s5Iw0IVZ_AWkmjw5

That's the first video I watched. I love the "rope trick".

I'm still in the testing mode. I checked the torque on as many head nuts as I could get to...some took a few degrees before they got up to 55in/lbs. I need a distributor torque wrench/adapter.

I may have caused the problem when working on the distributor...I had to remove #8 and reinstall several times to get the cable clamp off for distributor removal/installation. I'll see when I get the head off.

It will take a week or two for all the parts to arrive. I figure I might as well rehab everything associated with the head (water pump, etc.).

[Bruce of MN]

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A crows foot wrench at right angle to torque wrench beam is what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1PLUU...RCKC9Q25G&th=1

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

A crows foot wrench at right angle to torque wrench beam is what you need.

Or if you are a tool collector in additions to Model A enthusiast like me, you could get a nice S-8663 Snap-On Obstruction Wrench designed for the job. Just think of it as a reason to buy another tool.

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

A crows foot wrench at right angle to torque wrench beam is what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I1PLUU...RCKC9Q25G&th=1

A valid option...however, I have always disliked crow foot wrenches for some reason. I was given a set (Birthday? Xmas? I always got nice tool sets as gifts. When you have 3 gen of mechanics in the family, it's what they do) when I started out as an aircraft mech...never once used them (now they're gone) I just ordered the distributor wrench from Snyder's.

Now that I think about it, I remember getting 5 full sets of crow foot wrenches for installing fuel tubing into Tomahawk Cruise Missiles. We only needed a couple of sizes but the stupid supervisor on 2nd shift turned in the request...and got the full sets from Snap-on. I guess it wasn't his money!

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

Or if you are a tool collector in additions to Model A enthusiast like me, you could get a nice S-8663 Snap-On Obstruction Wrench designed for the job. Just think of it as a reason to buy another tool.

LOL, like I need a reason? Looks like they're no longer made. Ebay has a scabby, rusty one. I might keep an eye out...

[Canton_Model_A's]

Here is the adapter for the torque wrench to get around the distributor.

https://modelastore.com/index.php?ro...&category_id=0

[nkaminar]

My home made offset wrench. I needed it for the manifold nuts with an intake manifold for a Weber down draft carburetor. The square tubing transfers the torque just fine.

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

My home made offset wrench. I needed it for the manifold nuts with an intake manifold for a Weber down draft carburetor. The square tubing transfers the torque just fine.

Pretty cool! I no longer have a welding outfit, so I can't make one up. Most of the one-off wrenches (similar to yours) in my tool box were made by my Dad. I made a few myself...when I still lived at home and had access to Dad's Oxy/Acetyl setup. I used to be a pretty good at gas welding and brazing...a little TIG in school...bone stupid with a stick welder though.

[ModelA29]

Since it still runs. Drain the water, back the head nuts off a few turns and start the car. That will pop the cylinder head loose.

[Ayers1]

Not sure if you're going this route but if you don't have a high compression head, this would be a good time to consider one. Huge improvement in the giddy-up!

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by Ayers1

Not sure if you're going this route but if you don't have a high compression head, this would be a good time to consider one. Huge improvement in the giddy-up!

I'm an old hotrodder, so "power upgrades" are always part of my thought processes. However, since I'm new to the Coupe, and she's all original (AFAIK), I'm going to stick with the old head for a while. When I find myself pedaling too hard, I'll think more about upgrades...(cough, *Burtz*, cough)

Here at the beach, the only hills are overpasses. There's very little actual need for extra oomph.

[Bruce of MN]

Originally Posted by Trapdoor2

I'm an old hotrodder, so "power upgrades" are always part of my thought processes. However, since I'm new to the Coupe, and she's all original (AFAIK), I'm going to stick with the old head for a while. When I find myself pedaling too hard, I'll think more about upgrades...(cough, *Burtz*, cough)

Here at the beach, the only hills are overpasses. There's very little actual need for extra oomph
.

That's just crazy talk!

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by Trapdoor2

LOL, like I need a reason? Looks like they're no longer made. Ebay has a scabby, rusty one. I might keep an eye out...

Yeah, no. You can find nice ones for the price of that rusty one on E-Bay. I bought the basically un-used one in the picture for $40.

[Trapdoor2]

Originally Posted by Bruce of MN

That's just crazy talk!

LOL!

Dad's '29 roadster pickup had a 322 nailhead Buick in it. Before the Buick, it had a flathead V8 (Mercury, IIRC). I wish I could find the picture of it with the flatty, it was beautiful. The Buick had a full set of lakes pipes. If we went out of the city, I could sometimes talk him into pulling the plugs out of the pipes. OMG loud!

[Colorado kid]

Do you think he should maybe check his block for flat spots or might mill the head since he’s got it removed?

[ModelA29]

Originally Posted by Colorado kid

Do you think he should maybe check his block for flat spots or might mill the head since he’s got it removed?

Checking the deck and head for flatness (is that a word) should always be part of the job.