The Ford Barn

jimTN · 07-02-2011, 04:23 PM

Just aquired a 36 LB engine that has been in a barn for 30 years or more. Pulled the heads today and found some caked rust in the cyl. Presently soaking with the acetone/ATO mix. Turns out this was a period hot engine. Bored 80 over. My question is, how far can I go over the .80 to clean it up. I like the big bore and do not want to sleve unless absolutely necessary.

rotorwrench · 07-02-2011, 04:54 PM

From what I understand, the cylinder walls are pretty thin. Most folks don't take them over .080" OS without sleeves. Hopefully Walt or one of the other machinists can tell you for certain. I've heard of folks sleeving the 37/38 engines for 3 3/16" pistons but not on an LB or earlier engine yet.

Kerby

richard crow · 07-02-2011, 07:52 PM

sleve it back to std these enges don,t take to boaring 80.000 is all ready 20,000 over limet.these eng. don,t cool as good as the later eng.

Richard (EV8G) · 07-02-2011, 11:25 PM

Good advice... I once had an LB engine built and the work order listed the pistons as "standard". Come to find out (the hard way of course) that they were 3-3/16" "standard" and the walls were so thin that when the engine got
up to running temperature and was then shut off, it would not crank. (I always
thought maybe the crankshaft was not straight.) It was not very convenient... The advice given to sleeve it back to standard is good advice...

Walt Dupont--Me. · 07-03-2011, 07:28 AM

I've had to sleeve a few of these early engines, I don't recomend over .060. The 37-38 have thicker walls, I bore them .125 no problem. Walt

Ford Flathead · 07-04-2011, 09:44 AM

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You can't bore an early 21 stud over .080 because they do not make the head gasket big enough. When the gasket over hangs it sounds like a huge thump and will shake you out of the car.

Ol' Ron · 07-04-2011, 02:50 PM

Use a 24 stud gasket, Yes you have to punch a few holes. But that;s what we did wneen the aftermarket was alittle slow in getting this stuff out.

jimTN · 07-04-2011, 05:12 PM

I'm going to have to sleve anyway, one of the cyl has some serious water/rust damage. This would have been a hot engine in its day.

jimTN · 07-05-2011, 06:32 AM

Hey Ron, That is nead info, will file it away for future info!

07-02-2011, 04:23 PM	#1
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,617	36 LB block Just aquired a 36 LB engine that has been in a barn for 30 years or more. Pulled the heads today and found some caked rust in the cyl. Presently soaking with the acetone/ATO mix. Turns out this was a period hot engine. Bored 80 over. My question is, how far can I go over the .80 to clean it up. I like the big bore and do not want to sleve unless absolutely necessary.

07-02-2011, 04:54 PM	#2
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 17,411	Re: 36 LB block From what I understand, the cylinder walls are pretty thin. Most folks don't take them over .080" OS without sleeves. Hopefully Walt or one of the other machinists can tell you for certain. I've heard of folks sleeving the 37/38 engines for 3 3/16" pistons but not on an LB or earlier engine yet. Kerby

07-02-2011, 07:52 PM	#3
richard crow Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,863	Re: 36 LB block sleve it back to std these enges don,t take to boaring 80.000 is all ready 20,000 over limet.these eng. don,t cool as good as the later eng.

07-02-2011, 11:25 PM	#4
Richard (EV8G) Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: La Verne CA Posts: 432	Re: 36 LB block Good advice... I once had an LB engine built and the work order listed the pistons as "standard". Come to find out (the hard way of course) that they were 3-3/16" "standard" and the walls were so thin that when the engine got up to running temperature and was then shut off, it would not crank. (I always thought maybe the crankshaft was not straight.) It was not very convenient... The advice given to sleeve it back to standard is good advice... __________________ Early V8 Garage Pasadena Roadster Club

07-03-2011, 07:28 AM	#5
Walt Dupont--Me. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Gardiner Me. Posts: 4,200	Re: 36 LB block I've had to sleeve a few of these early engines, I don't recomend over .060. The 37-38 have thicker walls, I bore them .125 no problem. Walt

07-04-2011, 09:44 AM	#6
Ford Flathead Member Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: La Crescenta, CA Posts: 92	Re: 36 LB block Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) You can't bore an early 21 stud over .080 because they do not make the head gasket big enough. When the gasket over hangs it sounds like a huge thump and will shake you out of the car.

07-04-2011, 02:50 PM	#7
Ol' Ron Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Chester Vt Posts: 8,985	Re: 36 LB block Use a 24 stud gasket, Yes you have to punch a few holes. But that;s what we did wneen the aftermarket was alittle slow in getting this stuff out.

07-04-2011, 05:12 PM	#8
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,617	Re: 36 LB block I'm going to have to sleve anyway, one of the cyl has some serious water/rust damage. This would have been a hot engine in its day.

07-05-2011, 06:32 AM	#9
jimTN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Powell, TN Posts: 2,617	Re: 36 LB block Hey Ron, That is nead info, will file it away for future info!