Quote:
Originally Posted by James Rogers
Bubby, I agree with you on all you post except, what Purdy suggests. Using the distributor wire stud, goes against the original posters problem which, is the studs are too short because of the thickness of the head. Using the stud Purdy suggests would make the stud too long which would be as bad. In the end for judging, the studs are WRONG as are the heads WRONG. The heads are wrong in another sense as they are marked at the time they are cast and the originals are marked also. The 5.5 heads have 2 round bumps on the top on the driver side with 5 picks on each which designates them as 5.5 heads. The original heads have a dimple on the front between the water outlet mount and the pump mount which looks like a 3/16" X 1/16" bump.
I just see that for judging, which is the original posters issue, the heads have more discrepancies than just the stud boss thickness. Besides that, where did he go anyway? Why is he not part of this discussion?
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I also didn't see anything in the original post about judgeing. I guess if your building for judgeing you've gotta do what you've gotta. My reference to the ignition cable studs was because I feel that they .could be a viable alternative for the home model A mechanic. For a driver car these studs would allow the average model A mechanic to install his new head and have the ability to use all of the block threads and still have threads above the head nut.
Criswellink, on # 16 of present thread posted a link to a previous thread about this subject in 2010. There were four pages in the thread. On page three, #43 , Model A apprentist, posted pictures. the pictures showed the way that it looked with the standard length stud and a picture with the ignition cable stud and how far it protruded above the nut. It didn't look that bad to me