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Old 03-28-2026, 09:29 AM   #4
Karl Wescott
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,662
Default Re: Roadster wind wings

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From a previous thread...


Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl Wescott View Post
1. Original windwing brackets had a concave surface facing the glass. The original pads had a matching convex shape. I don't know about the Vintique part but if it is a repro of the original and the brackets are repro* they will not work together. Repro* brackets usually have a flat face against the glass and use a flat pad (trimmed to shape after installation).


2. Alignment is everything to keep the glass from slipping. The fulcrum is an adjustable screw, then you have the clamping screw. The fulcrum screw needs to be adjusted so when the brackets clamp the glass they are parallel to each other and compress the pads evenly. If the fulcrum screw is too high the clamps pinch at the back with no compression at the front (and the glass falls out). If the screws are too low at the front then the clamps pinch at the front (and the glass falls out).


3. If the fulcrum screws are adjusted properly and good compression applied that is usually enough to keep the glass in place. Weatherstrip adhesive is often a mess but could help if the fulcrum screws are adjusted properly but will not be enough if they are not. That said, with a repro* bracket die grinding a small pocket in the flat face and a drop of adhesive may help the pad from shifting on the bracket.


4. As with almost anything, start by assembling everything loosely. You want to start with the brackets on the windshield post snug but able to rotate slightly in both directions. When you start tightening the brackets to the glass that allows the brackets to rotate to be parallel with each other and not flex the glass. Then tighten the lock nuts.


5. The swivel bearing surfaces are supposed to be tapered to lock when the adjustment screw are tightened. Think like as a Morse taper drill bit. These need to be checked for full contact and lapped with an abrasive if needed. Check by marking with a black marker, then insert and rotate, areas not making contact will still be marked on examination.


6. Pads are rubber and holding the glass by compression. Over time as they age and harden they may "lose their grip". Expect to replace every 10 years or so.

* Walt Trautwein did make repro bracket with the pocket but they were discontinued in the 1980's iirc.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 400A View Post
I've had some success using 3M Scotch Mount "Extreme" two sided adhesive tape in place of the rubber pads. You still need to properly adjust your fulcrum and clamping screws, but the double sided tape goes a way to helping keep the glass in place. You can buy the tape on Amazon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Planojc View Post
Do as Karl said, it may take some practice to get max clamping pressure on the glass. On mine I did a test fit on the car, then using a sharpie I traced around the clamp on to the glass where the pads will go, removed everything and scuffed up the glass where the pads sit for better grip. I then used contact cement on the pads and the clamp surface.
Quote:
Originally Posted by danliveshere View Post
Thanks everyone. I used a very sticky double sided mounting tape. And it worked very well.
After a very long restoration, the roadster is now ready for a roadworthy certificate and registration. That’s booked in Friday week, and I’ll get better photos once it’s outside and looking clean and pretty. In the meantime, here’s a little photo of the completed wind wings. I just figured I’ll be able to change my avatar soon! Dan.
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