Quote:
Originally Posted by Ayers1
I went by the same guidelines and my engine did the same thing. I checked with a local A engine builder and he said when he sets the clearances he torques it down to the 80lbs instead of the 50. I tried that and mine did fine.
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That's probably what I'll do. Start again with new shims and go at full torque.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Knight
Start over with new shim packs removing one pair at a time. Go to full torque. I use 35 and 75. When it locks up put one shim back in, torque again, if it still has drag, put the other shim in. Time and patience you will get the job done. Do the mains first. It is never easier than when it is out and upside down.
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Yeah I almost think I could do it by feel better than with the plastigauge.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hitman
Why are you torquing the rods and mains to 80lbs? That’s too high for both and double what they should be for the rods.
Also, why are you setting the clearance at one torque setting and then finishing at a different torque?
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80 and 35. I'm doing the process described in Les Andrew's book.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThirstyThirty
my stocker engine had a low rpm, high load growl... that only spelled one thing! bad main! yup! looked into it some of it gone, some of it barely tinfoil. now has a new bottom cap. Prussion blue and a scraper... later than sooner, i had it close enuff to try.  sounded much better. it was me that was upside down and under, but not out! |
Interesting that you say that. I also have a similar growl and found my rear main has failed. Although I don't have the time or money to rebuild right now I was going to stick it back together and run it a while longer.
