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boxing plates My friend keeps telling me to box the frame of my 1929 coupe, he thinks its proper since I have the whole car apart, to make it a stronger frame even though iam not changing the stock engine. Many tell me I shouldn't do it cause Iam not changing the engine, but he thinks I should even if some modification to the engine will create higher speeds. Should I box the frame or don't waste my time and money???
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No not need. But you should check and make sure it is not bent down by the rear motor mount. This happens most of the time on the driver side. But can happen on both sides. They were bent originally from the rough roads back in the day. |
Re: boxing plates Not needed even with high compression head hot cam etc Straighten frame they can sag near rear engine mount if needed
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Re: boxing plates thanks for the info, other question, is it a good idea to get the MITCHELL OVERDRIVE?
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Re: boxing plates If you want to drive faster than 45 I would use the 3.27 rear end gears or an overdrive, either the Mitchell or in a tranny change.
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Re: boxing plates I think you need to get a new friend. LOL
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Re: boxing plates can putting the boxing plates on the frame cause problems?
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Re: boxing plates Yes boxing the frame can make putting together a factory car with the same fasteners very difficult.
Keep in mind that the factory A was designed to run 60 MPH over very poor roads one would drive at the time. And, YES the cars were run that way for many many miles. If you want a reliable safe easy driving car that run 60+ MPH anywhere then rebuild the car back to factory specs on the chassis. If you want a car that makes a lot of noise, is not reliable or easy to drive then rod it. |
Re: boxing plates Kevin,what about getting the dimpled box plates with numerous holes that are 2 inches or more
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To what ends? If the car is powered by the stock engine (will even one with a lot more HP) it needs only to be mechanically restored back to factory specs. (Not to be confused with Judging Standards correct) Once properly restored back to the factory specs you can beat the crap out of an A and it is happy. Take it out in to the woods and drive around the stuck 4 WD things. Get all 4 wheels in the air over the hill. Then get back on the highway and run 55+ MPH all the way home for hours on end. The next day it will spend an hour in a parade and be happy as a clam (just how happy is a clam?). Read all the period literature about how people used and abused the A when they were 3 year old used cars. They were not babied!!!!! So again why does the A need a boxed frame? (Hint: it is a waste of time) |
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And the answer is "No." |
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Re: boxing plates It sounds like you already have the plates to do the job and you are just waiting for someone on here to tell you that it is a good idea to do it. I don't think anyone is going to say it! If you are not going to put a 396 big block chevy in there, it is a waste of time.
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Re: boxing plates 1 Attachment(s)
No need to do it, if you do you will have to change a lot of things that a stock A has. I run a 239 Flat head more than once with out the plates.
Here is a picture of my 1930 pickup with 1939 - 239 flathead. It was built from pieces so did not destroy a real truck. No boxing plates it is set up for a 4 cylinder also. |
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Re: boxing plates The Model A's frame was designed to be flexible, so it has just the right amount of torsional stiffness. Boxing the side rails will change the stiffness of the frame and concentrate stresses where they should not be. I strongly recommend that you do not do it.
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Re: boxing plates A fellow I knew had a 46 Merc. flathead in his 30 stock roadster and he had no problems, just didn't try to burn rubber every time he drove it.
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Re: boxing plates what about all the others that box a frame only because of a motor change, where does that stress go?
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