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engine question 1 Attachment(s)
What is a easy engine to install on my 39 sedan? I don't have a ton of money, and would like to do it on a budget. Just get her running where I can enjoy the car more. It has the original 85hp flathead, and original 3 speed trans. Are there any engines that will bolt to the old trans? I know most folks put a powerhouse V8 in one. I would too, if I had the money, but what is a good economy plan?
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Re: engine question 1) take the coil off and send it to: Skip Haney
29436 Taralane Drive Punta Gorda FL 33982 2) take your distributor off and send it to: Skip Haney or Michael Driskell Third Gen Automotive 2600 Old Nashville Hwy McMinnville TN 37110 OR CharlieNY/ Charlie Schwindler 5845 Cole Road Orchard Park NY 14127 3) Take your carburetor and fuel pump Off and send them to :CharlieNY (above) After that, you will "most" likely be set for many miles of carefree driving AND joy beyond belief |
Re: engine question 1939DeLuxesedan: Take rockfla advice. Your best bet would be to rebuild or install the same engine that is already in your car. Yes, you can make other engines fit but, that always leads to additional unexpected changes and modifications. KEEP IT SIMPLE by keeping what you already have.
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Re: engine question When it came to me, the engine was frozen in place. Over time I was able to free it. It spins with the starter now. No fire at the plugs. It needs a distributor. It had a Mallory after market distributor. I believe it has failed. So i need another. If i could get fire, perhaps I could get it to sputter, or even run for a split sec. It needs a carburetor, fuel pump, gas tank and line. One water pump is frozen solid. I would replace both. Likely more. Is the cylinder wall damaged?
This process has the same feel as pulling the handle on one of those "one arm bandits" out in Vegas. But it would be my preference, to restore it. i wish I had the money to send it out and have it professionally rebuilt. I am exploring my options. Otherwise it will sit out in my barn for more years. Thanks for the input. |
Re: engine question 1. You would likely get more money at Vegas.
2. You will likely have much more fun over the years with the car than at Vegas. 3. Before you start throwing parts at it check for compression and do a pressure leak check on the block. Pull the heads and check for hardened valve seats and no cracks. If all looks good the V8 slot has been good to you, if not you may need to spend the $$ to rebuild the block. Drop the pan and CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN. Then new oil, of course. 4. Send the water pumps to Skip Haney too. 5. If you are moving forward keep us posted. |
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At this point, what you have listed as issues doesn't sound to daunting BUT, can you post a few pictures of the motor so we can see what exactly you have and can better advise you at this point. Getting a distributor, coil, carburetor and fuel pump isn't too difficult and shouldn't be ALL that expensive. I "may"..... have a distributor that I can donate to the cause, I will look at my stash of distributors and see what I can come up with. Lets see what you are currently working with first? In the mean time, I would pour some Marvel Mystery Oil down all the cylinders and down the intake and let that soak in for the next few days!!!! |
Re: engine question Wondering if you got a way to get the engine out? That's how I like to start.
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Re: engine question You might want to contact folks who already have a good running engine for sale. 1940 will fit a 39.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...&o=relevance&c[node]=47 |
Re: engine question Where do you live ? I’ve got 5 very good running flatheads hanging around . Most rebuilt or just re ringed and valve job . I’m in s Florida.
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Re: engine question I like your thought.
It is hard to put a value on the "cool factor". Riding around with flathead V8 has it in spaded! |
Re: engine question I also have many parts that you could try before you drop alot of money on it .
Its fairly easy to remove the intake , just to get an idea of the internal condition. If its decent cyl head removal would be next but not right away . Remove plugs get it cranking easy and check compression. Low is okay at this point . Dog walk time … |
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Re: engine question Super neat car! I have a passion for old Ford survivors. It' your car, but I wouldn't do anything to it that would harm its originality; just do what it needs to make run reliably and stop safely. What you have there is a bit of a rare flathead Ford. It's known as aConvertible Sedan and 1939 is the last year they were made; it's also the first year for hydraulic brakes for Ford. To my knowledge there aren't many around. Get with a local Early V8 club chapter and you should be able to recruit some eager club members to help you get it going again. Wish you all the best in getting her back on the road!
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Re: engine question Ford only made 3561 1939 DeLuxe Convertible Sedans, Model 91A-74.
It still used the 112 in. wheelbase and was 186.33 in. bumper guard to bumper guard., |
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Re: engine question That car needs to stay original with a flathead; it's a rare car. The very first thing you do with an engine that has set for a long time is to do a compression check on it. You're just wasting your time until you find out that it has compression.
My dad died, and I inherited his '32 roadster. It ran fine when he quit driving it. After 15-plus-years of sitting in his garage I started it, but it ran terrible., it has to stuck open valves. I just need to remove the intake and unstick them, and it will be fine. Also, the gas tank was full of muck. I have it cleaned out, I just need to repaint it. I have 12 car projects so it just sitting until I have the bug to get it running. I had a stroke so I'm not doing much car restoration work right now If you do a compression test and have a low cylinder, then I'd pull the intake and make sure the valves are all opening and closing. I've seen this twice now, on my dad's '32 with stuck valves and I bought a '51 Mercury out of a car and the only thing wrong with it was one of the lifter keepers had fallen out of it, so the entire lifter and valve were open The guy working on it never tried to diagnose it, he told the guy the motor was no good and sold him a Chevy to put in it. As soon as I got the original standard bore Merc engine home, I pulled the intake and saw the lifter keeper laying in the lifter valley. The guy could have popped it back in and still be driving it. Nice original car and now it's screwed up with a Chevy in it. |
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Gary |
Re: engine question If your original engine is too far gone to economically get running well you should consider swapping in another flathead Ford V8. Any 39 through 48 engine is basically a drop in, and a 49-53 engine can be made to bolt in with careful selection of outside parts (water pumps, pulleys, oil pan, bell housing, etc.).
Let us know how your compression tests go (dry, then with oil added), and we can help you further. This doesn't have to break the bank, and does not require swapping in an overhead valve engine. |
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I did do some brake work a while back. The master cylinder says "Lockheed". It must be original. Lockheed aircraft partnered with Ford in 1939 to help with hydraulic brakes. It was rusted solid. I replaced it. But likely need to rebuild each slave cylinder. Maybe I will have working brakes at that point |
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I did do some brake work a while back. The master cylinder says "Lockheed". It must be original. Lockheed aircraft partnered with Ford in 1939 to help with hydraulic brakes. It was rusted solid. I replaced it. But likely need to rebuild each slave cylinder. Maybe I will have working brakes at that point. I really would like to see if I can produce a spark at the plugs. I need a distributor to make that happen. I understand the need for a compression check. I had a compression checker some where. Haven't seen it in years. Maybe I need to buy another. An after market distributor was around $400 last time I checked. Always something comes up that depletes any money I save. Its called living. Next thing I know, another year (or 2) goes by, and there she sits. Additionally. I wouldn't know a stuck valve if it hit me in the head. I have worked on cars all my life. Now 70. When I grew up, points were the norm. But I never owned a flathead. It is a source of frustration and shame to me. It is a pretty yard ornament. It only moves if loaded on a trailer or rollback. These are the thoughts that cause me to consider another engine. One that will run. That or sell it. Thanks for all the good advice. |
Re: engine question 1939Deluxesedan
Where are you located??? I think I have a distributor I changed out on one of my cars that I know is good and a coil I use on my Sun Machine, it has not been re-done by Skip BUT I know it will work for you to at least draw a spark that I could send to you as long as you send it back once you figure out what direction you are going to take. |
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Re: engine question My first compression check would be put my thumb over the spark plug holes while spinning the starter. That will tell how many valves are stuck, and any compression readings are going to change quite a bit after its been run, if sitting a long time.
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Re: engine question My advice would be to stay away from any aftermarket electronic (or points, for that matter) distributor and use a properly set up stock unit. You'll probably save some dough, too.
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